Rue Montorgueil, the fishermen’s street
Rue Montorgueil is one of the oldest streets in Paris. In the 13th century, it was a modest dirt path crossing the Val-Larroneux marshes, and it remained outside the ramparts built by King Charles V in the 14th century.
The Val-Larroneux was an area where crime and prostitution were common. This gave the path various unsavoury names such as “Chemin de la Vallée aux Voleurs” (Path of the Valley of Thieves) and “Champ-aux-Femmes” (Women’s Field).
By the 17th century, Paris had expanded beyond the old rampart, and the first houses had appeared along the Chemin du Val-Larroneux, which was renamed Rue des Poissonniers (Fishmongers’ Street), then Rue Poissonnière in 1635.
Indeed, the trail was the last section of the route the Norman fishermen took at night to go and sell their catch at Les Halles market.
Leading directly to Les Halles, the street quickly became an important thoroughfare, lined with food shops and related businesses.
Rue Poissonnière was renamed Rue Montorgueil at the end of the 18th century, a name it inherited from the nearby Mont Orgueilleux, a mound formed by centuries of accumulated refuse.
The arrival of the railway in the 1850s brought an end to the Norman fishermen’s trade.
But despite its successive transformations, Rue Montorgueil retains a village charm with its iconic shops, bakeries, pastry shops, and bistros, several of which are listed as historical monuments.
Located in the heart of Paris, just a 15-minute walk from the Seine and 20 minutes from the Louvre Museum, it’s the perfect place to stroll while planning your next Parisian adventure.
Below are a few must-visit addresses on Rue Montorgueil.
L’Escargot Montorgueil at No. 38
L’Escargot Montorgueil was founded in 1832. This restaurant is a true institution, renowned for its original Second Empire décor and culinary excellence. While its name suggests a specialisation in snails, L’Escargot Montorgueil also offers a diverse menu of refined dishes, sure to please every palate.
A visit to this restaurant is a must for anyone wishing to discover the charm of Rue Montorgueil!
Pâtisserie Stohrer at No. 53
In 1735, Marie Leczynska brought her father’s pastry chef with her when she moved to Paris to marry King Louis XV. This is how Nicolas Stohrer opened his famous pastry shop on Rue Montorgueil in 1730, the oldest street in Paris!
His specialities, particularly babas and puits d’amour (love wells), immediately won the hearts of all Parisians!
Given the exceptional quality of the pastries, it was only natural that the shop be adorned with exceptional decor.
In 1864, the renowned painter Paul Baudry, famous for his works at the Hôtel Galliera and the foyer of the Opera Garnier, adorned the walls and ceiling of the shop with fabulous frescoes. You can admire Baudry’s magnificent works there, but be warned, you won’t be able to resist the delicious pastries on display!
Café Biard at No. 73
Today, a bookstore and a souvenir shop occupy the site of the former Café Biard, at the corner of Rue Montorgueil and Rue Léopold Bellan. However, you can still admire the original shop window, adorned with magnificent carved woodwork and antique mosaics.
Le Rocher de Cancale at No. 78
If you know Brittany and enjoy oysters, you’ve probably already heard of Cancale, a picturesque fishing village overlooking the Mont Saint-Michel Bay, renowned for its oyster farming.
Oyster consumption experienced a considerable boom in the early 19th century, when wealthy Parisians discovered the pleasures of seaside holidays. Even back in the city, they couldn’t resist enjoying fresh oysters!
To meet this demand, Cancale’s oyster farmers shipped their harvest to Les Halles market and to the restaurant Le Rocher de Cancale on Rue Montorgueil.
Established in the 18th century at No. 59, Le Rocher de Cancale underwent a transformation in 1804 and became one of the most fashionable restaurants in Paris. Renowned literary figures of the time, such as Alexandre Dumas, Eugène Sue, and Théophile Gautier, indeed frequented the establishment. Parisian high society flocked to savour the delicious oysters and seafood of Cancale, especially after attending theatrical or operatic performances. Honoré de Balzac even immortalised Le Rocher de Cancale in his literary work, La Comédie humaine.
Despite its initial success, the restaurant experienced financial difficulties and closed its doors in 1846. It re-opened initially on rue Richelieu and at No. 78 rue Montorgueil, where the first floor still features frescoes by Gavarni.
A La Mère de Famille at No. 82
If you’re a chocolate lover, you’ll be delighted to indulge in the sweet treats of À La Mère de Famille, one of the oldest chocolate shops in Paris.
The shop’s facade and interior exude an undeniable old-world charm, though it doesn’t quite rival the original shop, opened in 1761 (well before the Revolution!) at No. 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre.
The Belle Époque decor with its ornate tiles, wooden counters, and elegant metal chandeliers, earned the historic shop its well-deserved status as a historical monument in 1984.
Mariage Frères at No. 90
Mariage Frères is the oldest tea importer and shop in Paris. Its origins date back to the 17th century, when Louis XIV commissioned expeditions around the world in search of exotic products, including tea.
In 1843, brothers Henri and Édouard Mariage specialised in the wholesale of tea, and in 1854, they established the first tea warehouse. For over 130 years, Mariage Frères supplied tea to the most prestigious hotels and palaces.
In 1983, the company expanded into retail to cater to the tastes of an affluent clientele of tea connoisseurs. The historic tea room on Rue du Bourg-Tibourg retains its original 19th-century wooden furniture and counters, remnants of a colonial-style decor dating back to the 19th century.
Today, Mariage Frères owns 30 shops in France, Germany, the United Kingdom, and Japan, including five in Paris. They distribute their teas in 60 countries and also supply the tea for Japan Airlines’ first-class cabins, and in 2000, they launched an online store, making their tea accessible to enthusiasts worldwide.
Au Planteur at No.10 rue des Petits-Carreaux
Rue des Petits-Carreaux extends Rue Montorgueil northward and is a former section of Chemin du Val-Larroneux.
The facade of its most iconic shop, “Au Planteur” at No. 10, is adorned with a striking ceramic fresco created in 1890 for the eponymous store, a supplier of exotic goods, including coffee from the former French colonies.
The inscription “Aucune Succursale” (No Branch) below proclaimed its unique status in Paris.
This finely crafted ceramic panel depicts a scene of cultural exchange: a man of African descent, wearing striped breeches in white and red, serves coffee to a white gentleman from the colonial era, seated on a chair.
Although the store has long since closed, the ceramic fresco, along with the wooden structure of the facade, was rightfully recognised as a historical monument in 1984.
The bonus
Among the other iconic establishments on Rue Montorgueil, you’ll discover quaint and charming boutiques, such as a hardware store tucked away next to the delightful Café Biard.
While the street has managed to preserve its old-world charm, the newer shops blend harmoniously into this vintage atmosphere, such as Le Pain Quotidien, a bakery and tea room on the corner of Rue Saint-Sauveur.
And don’t forget to look up and admire the magnificent signs adorning the façades of Palais du Fruit and Café Montorgueil.
Directions: 2nd district
Metro station: Les Halles on Line 4 or Sentier on Line 3
