Origin of the oysters of Cancale
Cancale, known as Kankaven in Breton, is a picturesque fishing village nestled along the Baie du Mont-Saint-Michel on the Emerald Coast. It was founded in the 6th century by Saint Méen, a preaching monk from Cornwall.
Today, Cancale is a must-see destination, considered the oyster capital of Brittany. The crystal-clear waters of the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel harbour exceptionally high-quality plankton, essential for the proliferation of wild oysters.
Taking advantage of this natural resource, Cancale has specialised since antiquity in the farming of native flat oysters, known as “huître plate” or Belon, which have populated the bay for millennia.
The Romans developed oyster farming when they arrived around 2,000 years ago. This is how small fishing villages developed along the shores of Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, exploiting the abundant beds of wild oysters.
Over time, oyster farming in Cancale became a pillar of the maritime heritage and the regional economy.
The French kings’ fondness for shellfish elevated Cancale to the prestigious status of official supplier to the royal court, thus establishing the town’s renown.
Oysters have long been considered a delicacy throughout France. At the beginning of the 19th century, oyster consumption spread from royal circles to all levels of affluent French society, particularly with the rise of seaside resorts, which led to the development of oyster farming across the country.
However, the sector suffered a major setback in 1920 when an unknown disease decimated oyster populations, threatening the oyster farming industry.
The importation of wild flat oysters from Auray, fortunately, revived the oyster farming industry in Cancale. Located at the mouth of the Auray River in Morbihan, southern Brittany, this Breton fishing port had indeed been spared from contamination.
While other regions of France turned to importing oysters from Japan, prized for their round or cupped shells (huître creuse), Cancale continued to thrive, thanks to the enduring appeal of its native flat oysters
French oysters peculiarities
As a result, France boasts two distinct types of oysters: native flat oysters (Ostrea edulis), originating from the French coast, and Japanese oysters (Crassostrea gigas), which have a cupped shell.
The trade in cupped oysters is governed by an official code and a series of interprofessional agreements that define calibration standards! This calibration system determines the weight of a basket containing 100 oysters, thus ensuring the regularity of trade.
In contrast, native flat oysters are subject to interprofessional agreements, but not to the same rigorous calibration standards.
France is the leading European producer of oysters, with an annual production of 130,000 tons, mainly of Japanese oysters, equals to 90% of domestic demand.
Within this flourishing sector, the Bay of Mont Saint-Michel stands out for its specialisation in Belon oyster farming. Although representing only 2% of national production, these unique oysters are prized for their exceptional quality and distinctive flavour.
Cancale, the Breton oyster capital
The oyster beds of Cancale cover 7 square kilometres and produce approximately 25,000 tons of oysters per year.
Oyster farming is a meticulous and lengthy process. It all begins with the rearing of the larvae, which attach themselves to various substrates such as tiles, slate, wood, iron, or plastic.
After six months, the young oysters are transferred to plastic bags fixed to iron tables in the oyster beds. Regular water changes and selective sorting ensure optimal growth and quality.
Following this initial phase, the oysters undergo a six-month refining process in special ponds called claires. During this stage, the quality and colour of the flesh, as well as the hardness of the shell, are improved.
After two to three years, the oysters are ready for sale and arrive on your plate.
You can discover the oyster beds of Cancale at low tide by strolling along the beach. The air is then filled with the invigorating scents of plankton and seaweed.
You can also buy a basket of fresh oysters directly from the producers at their stalls set up along the beach.
They will prepare the oysters right there in front of you, and you will have the pleasure of enjoying them seated at one of the small tables, or even sitting on the sand itself while taking in the picturesque setting of the seafront. The best spot!
Cancale, an active fishing village
Cancale is a vibrant fishing village, although the charming fishermen’s houses along the port of La Houle now house crêperies and seafood restaurants. Sitting on a terrace, you can enjoy freshly shucked oysters while watching the fishing boats come and go at high tide. You can also stroll along the beach, where local fishermen hang their nets to dry.
The picturesque port of La Houle has a shallow harbour, thus limiting coastal navigation to boats with a shallow draft, allowing them access to the port to unload their catch.
The lighthouse stands at the entrance to the Jetée de la Fenêtre, an Eiffel-style metal jetty restored by the department between 2009 and 2011. Made of 345 tons of steel and equipped with oak breakwaters and a fish-unloading crane, this jetty offers spectacular views of the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel. On a clear day, you can even glimpse the silhouette of the abbey on the horizon.
As the sun’s rays dance on the water, the sea is adorned with a thousand shades of aquamarine and turquoise, giving this coast its name: the Emerald Coast.
Around Cancale
If you enjoy hiking and have some time to spare, don’t hesitate to take the Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Officers’ Path), a challenging trail that winds along the rugged coastline. The starting point is near the War Memorial and a small megalith at Pointe des Crolles, the promontory overlooking the Port de la Houle.
The imposing War Memorial shelters the Virgin of the Seas, flanked by soldiers and serves as a beacon for fishing boats navigating the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel.
Along the path, your first stop will be Pointe du Hock (not to be confused with La Pointe du Hoc in Normandy), a promontory overlooking the marina. It offers exceptional views of the Rocher de Cancale and Île des Rimains, two islands that were once connected to the mainland, as well as a 18th-century fort.
Continuing along the path, you’ll reach Pointe du Grouin, another remarkable spot offering breathtaking panoramic views of Mont-Saint-Michel Bay and the Chausey Islands.
This hike showcases the natural beauty of the Cancale coastline and is a must for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers!
Department of Ille-et-Vilaine
Coordinates: Lat 48.670375 – Long -1.855381
