Baie du Mont St Michel
Mont St Michel is an iconic medieval abbey, perched on a rocky spur in the heart of a vast bay.
Known as La Merveille de l’Occident – The Marvel of the Western World it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979.
Formerly, the small Cousenon River flowed into the sea to the north of the island, marking the border between the duchies of Brittany and Normandy, thus placing Mont-Saint-Michel in Brittany. This border was moved at the beginning of the 11th century.
The bay of Mont St Michel is renowned for its unique colours and exceptional panoramas. However, it is also infamous for its dangerous waters and shifting sandbanks. It is indeed known to be rapidly submerged during high tides, offering a true spectacle of nature’s forces.
Victor Hugo powerfully described the dynamic nature of the tides, comparing the water’s retreat and return to the speed of a galloping horse!
Sadly, over the centuries, many pilgrims, imprudent or ill-informed, have found themselves trapped by the rising waters.
A large-scale dredging program was undertaken a few years ago to address the accumulation of sand and silt resulting from the tides, which could cause water levels to fluctuate by up to 12 meters.
The causeway built in 1875 to allow access to the abbey was often submerged due to these significant tidal variations. However, thanks to the completed dredging work, Mont St Michel has regained its status as an island.
Mont St Michel – Mont Tombe
In 708 AD, Bishop Aubert of Avranches chose this deserted island to erect an oratory dedicated to the archangel Michael.
Mount Tombe, as this island was then known, quickly became an important place of pilgrimage.
Thus, in the 9th century, a church replaced the modest oratory, and an abbey was subsequently founded, marking the beginning of its evolution into an architectural masterpiece, both religious and military.
Over the centuries, the abbey underwent expansions and embellishments, resulting in the impressive building that can be admired today.
The monks played a crucial role in its construction, transporting enormous blocks of granite from Brittany and the Chausey Islands. However, they had to carry these blocks on foot to the top of the promontory, because the access path was too narrow! It was a real feat!
Notre-Dame-sous-Terre and Crypte des Gros Piliers
Between 1017 and 1144, the monks undertook the ambitious project of erecting a new church on the foundations of the 9th-century building to enlarge and modernise their place of worship.
The church underwent further transformations at the end of the 15th century, as it was converted into a crypt to support the vast nave of the current building.
This original Romanesque church, now known as Notre-Dame-Sous-Terre, occupies a unique place in the history of Mont St Michel and testifies to architectural ingenuity. The development of the crypt indeed required the creation of additional underground spaces to accommodate the expanding structure.
Among these, the crypt of the Crypte des Gros Piliers (Big Pillars) stands out as a remarkable engineering masterpiece.
This crypt is indeed supported by a dozen pillars, each measuring 5 metres in circumference, hence its name, and ingeniously adapts to the steep and rugged terrain of the island.
The Marvel of the Western World
The monks of Mont St Michel continually expanded their abbey over the centuries, particularly between the 13th and 16th centuries. Among their most remarkable achievements during this period were the construction of two magnificent three-story buildings between 1211 and 1238, made possible by donations from King Philip-Augustus.
These monastic buildings, which complement the church, are exemplary examples of pure Gothic architecture. It includes the Salle d’Accueil – Reception Hall for pilgrims, the refectory, the Almonry with its Romanesque vault, the Salle des Chevaliers – grand Knights’ Hall, the historic vaulted cellar and the cloister.
The original Romanesque choir having collapsed, it was rebuilt in the purest Flamboyant Gothic style between 1446 and 1521, and harmoniously complements the simplicity of the Romanesque nave.
These additions earned the abbey the moniker La Merveille de l’Occident – The Marvel of the Western World. The church is crowned by an imposing spire, peaking at 157 metres above ground level, topped by a statue of the Archangel Michael, sculpted by Emmanuel Frémiet in 1879.
The bell tower was rebuilt in 1897. The cloister offers a breathtaking view of the Bay of Mont St Michel and the verdant gardens at the foot of the abbey.
Fortifications and Grande Roue
The ramparts were erected in the 14th century to defend the abbey during the tumultuous period of the Hundred Years War.
With its imposing fortifications and strategic location, Mont St Michel stood as an impregnable bastion.
The abbey even withstood a siege that lasted thirty years, making it a powerful symbol of national identity.
Amazingly, even amidst the ravages of war and the English occupation of the region, Mont St Michel remained a place of pilgrimage. Pilgrims from all over France continued to flock to the abbey, subject to a toll collected by the English!
The last expansions of the monastic buildings took place before the French Revolution, when the monks were expelled, and the abbey was transformed into a prison until 1863.
The Grande Roue (wheel) is a reminder of this period.
Five or six prisoners indeed operated on foot the immense mechanisms that hauled up food and supplies to the abbey buildings.
Fortunately, the Mont St Michel Abbey was classified as a historical monument in 1874, which saved it from abandonment and decline.
In 1979, UNESCO inscribed the abbey on the World Heritage List due to its outstanding universal value, and the Bay of Mont St Michel was added to the World Heritage List in 2007.
Since then, extensive restoration work has restored much of the abbey to its former glory.
Mont St Michel – Village
Getting around Mont St Michel involves constant ups and downs, as there are no flat paths; We are constantly going up and down stairs!
The village houses cling to the slopes at the foot of the abbey, lining a narrow alleyway with a single main entrance and exit.
The imposing Porte Bavole (Gate) marks the entrance to the Cour de l’Avancée (Courtyard), where a collection of English mortars from the Hundred Years’ War is displayed, which the locals affectionately nicknamed “Michelettes“.
The Maison des Gardes, formerly a guardhouse, now houses the Tourist Office. These two buildings date from 1540.
Further on, the Porte du Roi (King’s Gate) features an impressive portcullis that spans the village’s only street, near the Maison du Roi (King’s House), which now serves as the town hall.
The main street, Grande-Rue is lined with charming medieval houses.
Many of these houses still retain their picturesque medieval names, such as the Maison de la Sirène (Mermaid), Maison de l’Artichaut (Artichoke), and Maison de la Truie qui File (Sow).
Uphill, you will find the Logis Saint-Étienne or Logis Tiphaine, built in 1365 by Bertrand du Guesclin for his wife Tiphaine Raguenel.
The steep Grands Degrés – Grand Steps lead to La Merveille, the monastic buildings.
Remarkably, the apse of Saint-Pierre church, the village’s 11th-century parish church, spans the lane.
Mont St Michel and St. Michael Mount
The founding of Mont-Saint-Michel has long been compared to that of the St. Michael’s Mount, located off the coast of Cornwall, England.
Legend has it that St. Michael’s Mount was built on a small rocky islet, where the archangel Michael is said to have appeared.
In the 5th century, Celts from Cornwall settled on the Breton coast, bringing their religious beliefs and folklore. It is believed that they saw in the Mont Tombe the island they had left. The striking resemblance between the two abbeys often causes confusion among visitors.
The Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey, the second-most-visited tourist site in France after the Eiffel Tower, attracts crowds all year round, which can spoil the visit.
Thus, for a more enjoyable visit, try, if possible, to plan your trip off-season to avoid crowds.
Department of Manche
Coordinates: Lat 48.635794 – Long -1.511205
