Quartier Saint-Médard’s church
Saint-Médard Church stands at the southern terminus of Rue Mouffetard, in what was once known as Quartier Saint-Médard, within the 5th district of Paris.
Rue Mouffetard, renowned for its charm and vibrancy, has replaced the ancient Roman road that once connected Lutetia (ancient Paris) to Lugdunum – Lyon.
Legend holds that the initial iteration of the church dates back to the 7th century, situated at the point where the old road intersected with the Bièvre River. However, marauding Norman invaders razed the structure during their 9th-century raids, leaving it in ruins for centuries until its reconstruction in the 12th century.
Saint-Medard Church fell under the jurisdiction of the influential Abbaye de Sainte-Geneviève, situated atop the Montagne Ste-Geneviève, near the present-day Eglise Saint-Etienne-du-Mont and Pantheon.
The legend of Saint-Médard
The church was dedicated to St. Medardus, the bishop of Noyon in Vermandois during the 5th and 6th centuries, hailing from northern France.
St. Médard holds a special place in French culture as one of the most invoked patron saints concerning weather-related matters.
His name inspired the well-known saying: “Quand il pleut à la St Medard, il pleut 40 jours plus tard! – If it rains on St. Medardus’ Day, it rains for forty days more!”. Indeed, legend has it that as a young boy, Medardus was sheltered from the rain by the wings of an eagle that kept hovering over him.
Given this tale, it’s no surprise that St. Medard became associated with weather-related matters, particularly rain, and by extension, infertility. He is also revered as the patron saint of winemakers, brewers, farmers, captives, prisoners, and the mentally ill.
In a tradition reminiscent of the English St Swithun, when farmers keenly observe the weather on June 8th, St. Medard’s feast day.
They believe that if it rains on this day, it will continue for the next forty days, unless the weather changes on St. Barnabas’ Day, which falls on June 11th.
Saint-Médard Church through the centuries
Saint-Médard Church underwent several expansions during the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries, culminating in the addition of the Chapelle de la Vierge and the presbytery in the 18th century.
The church boasts a magnificent Gothic Flamboyant nave, adorned with five intricately sculpted key vaults, and a wooden vaulted chancel—a rare architectural gem within Paris.
Remarkably, Saint-Médard Church was spared from destruction during the French Revolution, repurposed instead as a Temple of Work.
In the 19th century, the largest of the two cemeteries, situated on the southern side of the church, was transformed into the public garden Square Saint-Médard.
The Chapel of the Catechism was erected in 1901 on the site of the older, smaller cemetery on the northern side.
Further renovations occurred in the 20th century, including the installation of a modern stone altar in the chancel. This altar was consecrated by the Archbishop of Paris, Cardinal Vingt-Trois, on September 11, 2011.
A wealth of architectural and decorative features
Despite its location at the foot of the bustling Rue Mouffetard, Saint-Médard Church remains relatively unknown to tourists, which is a pity considering its rich architectural and artistic treasures!
Inside, visitors will indeed discover a plethora of murals, wood and canvas paintings by renowned artists, including works by Champaigne and Watteau. The church also boasts a Gobelins tapestry, stunning 16th-century stained glass windows, and contemporary pieces dating back to 1941.
Of particular note are the buffet and instrumental components of the organ, both designated as Historical Monuments in 1980. This buffet, originating from the 17th century but reconstructed in the 18th century by the renowned organ builder Clicquot, is complemented by the instrumental part dating from the late 19th century. Saint-Medard Church also houses a choir organ dating back to 1964, located in one of the lateral chapels near the chancel.
Why not consider a visit to Saint-Médard Church after enjoying a leisurely lunch at one of the many restaurants and cafes, or perhaps after exploring the vibrant market along Rue Mouffetard?
The Marché de la Rue Mouffetard runs every morning from Tuesday to Sunday, and on Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday, it extends to the nearby Place Monge via Rue Ortolan—a delightful experience not to be missed!
Directions: 5th District – No141 rue Mouffetard
Metro: Censier Daubeton or Place Monge on Line 7
Coordinates: Lat 48.839727 – Long 2.349983
