Rocamadour in Quercy
Rocamadour, located 36km east of Cahors, is situated within the stunning Parc Naturel Régional Causses de Quercy.
This medieval walled village and episcopal city perch upon a cliff overlooking the tranquil Alzou River, offering breathtaking views of the valley and the sprawling Causses tableland.
For over a millennium, Rocamadour has served as a significant pilgrimage destination following the discovery of St. Amadour’s grave.
Its spiritual significance has drawn countless visitors, making it the second most visited site in France, trailing only behind the iconic Mont Saint-Michel.
Despite its modest population of 650 inhabitants, Rocamadour experiences an astonishing influx of 1.5 million tourists during peak season, attesting to its enduring allure and timeless appeal.
Hospitalet
Arriving in Rocamadour via the Hospitalet is highly recommended.
This village’s belvedere offers spectacular views of Rocamadour and the Alzou Valley, providing visitors with a breathtaking introduction to the area’s beauty.
The Hospitalet is also home to the Tourist Office and a spacious car park, making it a convenient starting point for exploring Rocamadour.
Founded by Hélène de Castelnau in the 11th century, the Hospitalet – known as Espitalet in Old French – was established to accommodate pilgrims traveling from Le Puy to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
Its historical significance as a stopping point along this pilgrimage route adds to the charm and allure of Rocamadour’s rich heritage.
Rocamadour episcopal city and pilgrimage
Rocamadour is a charming village entirely pedestrianized, offering visitors a step back in time to its medieval origins.
Accessible via several fortified gates such as Portes du Figuier, Salmon, Basse, de Cabiliert, de l’Hospitalet, Hugon, or du Fort, the village boasts essential amenities like a post office, a gendarmerie, numerous hotels and restaurants, as well as a variety of souvenir and craft shops.
The village is organized into three distinct levels, each reflecting the medieval social hierarchy.
The upper town was home to knights, the middle section housed religious clerics, and the lower town accommodated secular workers by the riverbank.
Cobblestone lanes run parallel to the cliff, with the main street, Rue Roland le Preux, transitioning into Rue de la Couronnerie past the Porte Salmon gate. This main thoroughfare leads to the Grand Escalier, a grand staircase that ascends to the episcopal city.
Throughout Rocamadour, beautifully restored medieval buildings line the lanes, adding to the village’s picturesque charm and historical ambiance.
St. Amadour legend
The discovery in 1166 of a grave containing a remarkably preserved body in a rock shelter near Rocamadour has spurred various legends and interpretations.
According to one legend, the body was believed to be that of Zacheus of Jericho, husband of Veronica, who is said to have fled Palestine and settled in the Limousin region.
After Veronica’s death, Zacheus purportedly became a hermit in the Alzou Valley until his own death around 70 AD.
However, the most widely accepted version attributes the body to the Christian hermit St. Amadour.
Historical evidence suggests that the site was initially known as Roc Amator, meaning “lover of rock,” which gradually evolved into Roc Amadour.
Nonetheless, some scholars argue that the name Rocamadour may have originated from Rocamajor, an Occitan term combining “roca” (rock shelter) and “major” (important).
This interpretation highlights the significance of the site as a major rock shelter, emphasizing its importance in both historical and religious contexts.
Foundation of the abbey
Following the discovery of the preserved body in 1166, the Benedictine abbey of Tulle, as the owners of the land, saw an opportunity to generate substantial income.
They constructed a fortified abbey on the holy site and a defensive fortress atop the cliff. Rocamadour Abbey swiftly became a significant way-point along the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, thriving until the upheavals of the Hundred Years’ War, during which it suffered pillaging.
Despite periods of devastation, notably during the Wars of Religion, the miraculous statue of Our Lady and the church’s bell miraculously survived destruction. Protestants attempted to burn the body of St. Amadour, resorting to axing it when it resisted combustion. The few recovered bone fragments were reverently placed in the sanctuary-crypt.
By the time of the French Revolution in 1789, the Abbey of Rocamadour lay in ruins. However, in the 19th century, the abbots of Cahors undertook the task of rebuilding the abbey, the castle, the St. Amadour Sanctuary, and the Black Madonna shrine. Their efforts revived the pilgrimage tradition, ensuring that Rocamadour remained a beacon of spirituality and historical significance.
Via Sancta
The pilgrimage journey for those who stopped at the Hospitalet began by following the lane leading to the Porte du Figuier. From there, they traversed the village’s main thoroughfare, Rue Roland le Preux, and Rue de la Couronnerie, eventually arriving at the Place de la Caretta.
At the Place de la Caretta, pilgrims embarked on a profound spiritual ascent, climbing the 226 steps of the Grand Escalier, or Grand Stairway, known as the Via Sancta. With rosaries in hand, they ascended the stairs on their knees, reciting prayers with each step. Those who completed this arduous journey were granted a pardon, or forgiveness, for their sins.
Following the pilgrimage, pilgrims received an insignia, known as Senhals or Sportelles, typically crafted in one of the shops located on Place Senhals. Passing through a gate, they entered the episcopal palace and reached Place Saint-Amadour, the square within the episcopal city.
During the 19th century, the 14th-century fortified bishops’ palace underwent a significant restoration led by the architect Viollet-le-Duc, ensuring its preservation for generations to come. This restoration work not only preserved the historical significance of the palace but also contributed to the spiritual and cultural heritage of Rocamadour.
Abbey’s seven churches
Seven churches frame the Place St. Amadour, each holding its own significance in the pilgrimage journey.
Pilgrims often begin their spiritual quest at the Chapelle Notre-Dame, seeking miracles and blessings from the Virgin Mary. This chapel holds a special place in the hearts of many pilgrims, who come to offer prayers and supplications.
Overlooking the Place St. Amadour is the terrace known as Plateau St. Michel. Here, pilgrims encounter not only the Chapelle Notre-Dame but also the St. Michel Chapel. The original shelter of St. Amadour, though now empty, stands as a silent witness to centuries of devotion and pilgrimage.
Chapelle Notre-Dame and the Black Madonna
In 1456, tragedy struck when a rock fall destroyed the chapel that had been erected on the grave of St. Amadour.
However, out of the ashes rose the magnificent Flamboyant Chapelle Notre-Dame in 1479, swiftly becoming the most revered and visited sanctuary in Rocamadour.
This chapel was a marvel of architectural ingenuity, with three of its “walls” ingeniously carved out from the cliff face.
The delicate light filtering through the few apertures illuminated the warm hues of the mural decorations, creating an atmosphere of spiritual transcendence.
The juxtaposition of the refined Flamboyant entrance against the ruggedness of the rock only added to its allure.
Central to the chapel’s spiritual significance was the statuette of the Virgin Mary and Child, believed by many pilgrims to have been carved by the holy man himself.
Though dating from the 12th century, the 69cm tall statuette depicted the Virgin Mary seated with the Child Jesus on her left knee.
The representation of the Child Jesus with an adult face was a curious detail though.
Over the years, the statuette acquired a blackened patina due to oxidation and candle smoke, earning it the moniker “Black Madonna.”
Miracles were said to occur in its presence, marked by the ringing of the chapel’s bell.
News of these miraculous occurrences spread far and wide, drawing believers and pilgrims from across the Western Christian world to worship at the feet of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
Rocamadour thus emerged as an influential sanctuary and a major center of pilgrimage, attracting royalty, saints, and common folk alike.
Kings such as St. Louis and Philip the Fair, along with saints like St. Dominic and St. Bernard, made their pilgrimages to seek miracles and blessings. Even sailors from distant Brittany journeyed to Rocamadour, seeking the protection and intercession of the Holy Statue.
Durandal
Emerging from the chapel, your gaze is drawn upwards to a remarkable sight: an iron sword firmly embedded in the cliff face.
Legend has it that this is Durandal, the fabled sword of the legendary Count Roland, who served as the trusted lieutenant of Emperor Charlemagne.
According to the tale, Roland and his army found themselves trapped by Saracen forces in a narrow pass within the Pyrénées Mountains.
Faced with certain defeat and knowing he could not escape, Roland beseeched the Archangel Michael to safeguard the magic sword from falling into enemy hands.
Thus, the enduring legend of Durandal lives on, its presence serving as a testament to the valor and bravery of Count Roland, as well as the rich tapestry of myth and lore that weaves through the history of Rocamadour.
Saint-Michel Chapel
The monks constructed St. Michel Chapel within a natural rock shelter, a testament to their ingenuity and devotion.
Adorning the exterior wall facing the Chapelle Notre-Dame is a beautifully preserved fresco depicting The Annunciation and Visitation, showcasing Byzantine artistic influences typical of 12th-century religious art.
Beneath this masterpiece, a faded fresco from the 14th century honors St. Christopher, the revered patron saint of travelers and pilgrims.
Inside the chapel, visitors are greeted by less well-preserved frescoes portraying Christ in Majesty and the Archangel Saint-Michael. These artworks, though weathered by time, continue to inspire awe and reverence among pilgrims.
The entrance to St. Michel Chapel opens onto Rue de la Mercerie, inviting pilgrims and travelers to pause and reflect on the spiritual journey ahead.
St-Sauveur Basilica and St-Amadour Crypt
Standing adjacent to Our Lady’s Chapel, St-Sauveur Basilica commands attention with its imposing presence, its rear wall firmly anchored into the cliff face.
Dating back to the 11th-13th centuries, this remarkable church exhibits a captivating blend of Romanesque and Gothic architectural styles.
While it underwent restoration and modification in the 19th century, its original grandeur remains intact.
Characterized by two identical naves, each spanning three bays and separated by imposing columns, the basilica offers a sense of symmetry and grandeur.
Adorning its walls are paintings depicting the prominent pilgrims who journeyed to Rocamadour, paying homage to the sanctuary’s rich history and spiritual significance.
Beneath the hallowed halls of St-Sauveur Basilica lies the St. Amadour Crypt, accessible from the quaint Place St-Amadour. This square serves as a communal space for the seven churches within the Episcopal City, uniting pilgrims in their reverence and devotion.
Ste-Anne, St-Blaise and St-Jean-Baptiste chapels
The three chapels, constructed in the 19th century, contribute to the spiritual tapestry of Rocamadour.
Ste-Anne Chapel, adorned with a magnificent 17th-century gilded altar screen, stands proudly alongside St. Sauveur Basilica on one side and St. Blaise Chapel on the other, enriching the architectural ensemble with its timeless beauty and reverence.
Meanwhile, St. John-the-Baptist Chapel stands as a testament to faith and devotion, flanking the episcopal palace and offering a place of solace and contemplation for pilgrims and visitors alike.
Ramparts and Twelve Stations
The ramparts stand as the remnants of the 14th-century fortress, once vital for defending access to the promontory and safeguarding the abbey and sanctuaries.
In the 19th century, an impressive chateau was erected atop the cliff, replacing the medieval stronghold. Today, this chateau serves as the official residence of Rocamadour’s chaplains.
As pilgrims ascend the winding path towards the chateau, they encounter the Twelve Stations, marking significant moments in the journey of faith.
Among these stations stands the Jerusalem Cross, a symbol brought back by pilgrims from the Holy Land, now positioned near the upper ramparts beyond the Thirteenth Station—the Caves of the Nativity and the Holy Sepulchre—a sanctuary carved into the rock.
Recognizing the spiritual and historical significance of Rocamadour, UNESCO has designated both St-Sauveur Basilica and St-Amadour Crypt as World Heritage Sites under the label Chemins de Compostelle – Santiago de Compostela.
Department of Lot
Coordinates: Lat 44.799383 – Long 1.617901
Car parks: Lat 44.800181 – Long 1.616283
