French fries or Belgian fries?
The debate between French fries and Belgian fries has fueled culinary discussions for centuries. Despite their name, French fries (or frites in French) originated in northern France, a region that provides a significant portion of the national harvest. However, the invention of fries is disputed, with France and its neighbour, Belgium, vying for the title.
So, where exactly did fries come from?
The story of fries begins with the humble potato. Introduced to Europe by Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century, this unusual tuber, known as patata in South America, initially struggled to gain acceptance in Western Europe. Viewed with suspicion due to their underground origins, potatoes were initially perceived as impure and unfit for human consumption.
However, over time, their potential was recognised by botanists, monks who explored their medicinal properties, and royal courts that promoted this “new plant.” It wasn’t until the late 18th century, though, that potatoes found their place on European tables. As a substitute for wheat during poor harvests and famines, the potato indeed became a staple crop, gradually gaining popularity.
Parmentier introduces the potato in France
The introduction of the potato to France by Antoine de Parmentier was not without its challenges. Although he discovered its nutritional value in 1766 during his captivity in Westphalia during the Seven Years’ War, he struggled to convince the population of its benefits.
The potato was an abundant and resilient alternative to wheat, essential for preventing recurring famines. Initially met with suspicion, the potato was finally accepted thanks to an ingenious ruse by Parmentier. In 1785, he had a potato field in the Plaine des Sablons (Neuilly), which he had guarded during the day to pretend that the plant was highly vauable. He instructed the guards to turn a blind eye at night to make Parisians believe that they were guarding a precious and rare plant. This deception was successful as people sneaked through the fields to steal seedlings. Thus, in record time, potato cultivation spread throughout Paris!
Recognised as the “bread of the poor,” the potato flourished as a staple food. Resistant to cold and easy to grow, it fed armies, peasants, and impoverished populations. In 1793, revolutionaries uprooted all the exotic plants from the gardens of the Tuileries Palace and transformed them into potato fields, in order to feed Parisians.
The wheat shortage, exacerbated by successive disastrous harvests, forced the government to generalise potato cultivation on a national scale. A pragmatic solution to food shortages, potato cultivation thus spread throughout France.
Paris street vendors sell potato chips fries
Northern France benefits from a temperate climate and fertile soils ideal for potato cultivation.
Not only is France the world’s second-largest producer, but the Nord-Pas de Calais region is the leading French producer. It’s therefore understandable that people from the North proudly claim to have invented French fries, which are deeply rooted in their culinary tradition.
However, the debate still rages, with Parisians offering a different perspective. While acknowledging that potatoes were once “the bread of the poor,” they argue that deep-frying was a luxury inaccessible to the less fortunate, given the exorbitant price of fats in the past.
They cite instead the bustling streets of Paris, where enterprising vendors began selling fried potato slices as early as 1789. Set up their stalls on the iconic Pont-Neuf, these vendors enticed passersby with their fried potatoes, which they obviously dubbed Pont-Neuf potatoes. A recipe dating from 1794 even details the art of slicing the potatoes and cooking them in lard or butter.
Mr. Fritz sold the first fries in Belgium
At the beginning of the 19th century, a restaurant opened in Montmartre and added fries to its menu. One of the waiters, of Bavarian origin, Frédéric Krieger, seeing their popularity with customers, quickly realised he could make a fortune selling fries. They indeed sold like hotcakes!
So, in 1838, Krieger left for Belgium, where he became a street vendor of fries. Nicknamed Monsieur Fritz, Krieger thus pioneered the concept of the mobile fry stand. His perfectly fried potato slices, cooked in boiling clarified butter, were a resounding success! However, the iconic potato sticks, the format we are familiar with today, didn’t appear until 1850. Thus, to be fair, we can say that fries were invented in France, but modern fries are typically associated with Belgium.
So, where does the name French fries come from?
The origin of the term “French fries” dates back to World War II. When American soldiers landed in northern France and West Flanders, they discovered the now-famous Frites cut into sticks. In West Flanders, where French is widely spoken, they simply translated “frites” as “fries” and added “French.” Thus, the fried potato sticks became our beloved “French fries” !
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