Château de Chinon, the fortress of Henry II of England
Perched on a promontory overlooking the Vienne River and its valley, the Château de Chinon occupies a strategic position that has allowed it to be inhabited since the Palaeolithic era.
The Gauls later erected their fortress, Kairo, there, which the Romans transformed into a stone fortress. This fortress was temporarily occupied in the 5th century by the Visigoths during their raids into the region.
In the 10th century, the stronghold came under the control of the House of Blois before returning to the Counts of Anjou. Henry II Plantagenêt, King of England and descendant of the Counts of Anjou, undertook the construction of the current fortress, where he resided until his death in 1189.
His eldest son, Richard the Lionheart, ascended the throne but died in battle shortly afterwards. Henry’s youngest son, John Lackland, succeeded him. However, John Lackland was chased out and forced to relinquish his French possessions after abducting Isabella of France to marry her and secure his dominance over the Kingdom of France. The Château de Chinon thus reverted to the French Crown in 1205. Despite John Lackland’s attempts to recover his lost territories, he finally signed the Treaty of Chinon in 1214, definitively renouncing his territorial claims.
Joan of Arc meets Charles VII in the Château de Chinon
King Charles VII resided at the Château de Chinon from 1427 to 1450, the period during which Joan of Arc made her iconic visit to Chinon.
The 18-year-old Joan indeed arrived in Chinon with a bold request: to persuade the Dauphin of France, who would later become Charles VII, to grant her an army, claiming to be divinely ordained to liberate France from English rule.
Charles VII, known for his mental instability and grappling with the difficult political context of the Hundred Years’ War, was initially suspicious of the young woman.
However, intrigued by her conviction, he reluctantly agreed to meet her, but only after hiding among his courtiers while a substitute took his place.
Joan quickly recognised Charles among the courtiers and, after undergoing rigorous questioning for three weeks, she managed to convince him of her divine calling.
Under Joan’s leadership, the French forces rallied and won decisive victories against the English, notably at Orléans.
Charles VII was finally crowned King of France in Reims, marking a turning point in the Hundred Years’ War.
However, Joan’s triumphs were short-lived, as she was captured by the English and executed in Rouen in 1431.
After the reign of Charles VII, the Château de Chinon fell into disuse and in the 19th century, became a quarry for building materials.
A quick tour of the Château de Chinon
Château du Milieu
The main enclosure of Château de Chinon, known as the Château du Milieu – Middle Castle, was fortified by deep defensive moats.
1- Fort Saint-Georges protected the eastern side of the castle, which was accessible via a drawbridge, replaced in the 19th century by a fixed bridge.
2- This bridge leads to the Tour de l’Horloge – Clock Tower, dating from the 14th century, which opens into the castle grounds. The four rooms of this tower are dedicated to the life of Joan of Arc. The tower boasts a bell, named Marie-Javelle, that was installed in 1399.
3- The Great Hall, where Joan of Arc met the Dauphin, is today in ruins, and only a monumental fireplace remains today.
4- An exterior gallery once connected the royal apartments, or Logis Royal, to the Great Hall. These apartments, with four rooms per floor, mostly had splendid Gothic fireplaces. The Chambre Nattée (Woven Room), probably the king’s chamber, took its name from its tapestry-covered walls.
5- The 12th-century Tour du Trésor – Treasury Tower, although dismantled, has retained its vaulted cellar.
6- The arsenal, now adorned with 16th-century tapestries, houses a large model representing the Château de Chinon in the 15th century.
Fort Coudray
y. 9- The upper floor of the Boissy Tower, dating from the 12th century, served as the castle’s chapel. 10- The Castle Tower was originally used as a dungeon. 11- Louis XI transformed the Argenton Tower, built in the 15th century, into a prison, where he imprisoned his opponents in cramped and squalid cells, which he cynically nicknamed “his little darlings.” 12- As its name suggests, the Tour des Chiens (Tower of Dogs) once housed the royal kennels. Beautifully restored, the tower now offers breathtaking views of the picturesque vineyards of Chinon stretching as far as the eye can see.
7- The moats surrounding the Middle Castle were dug in the 13th century to create a physical barrier between it and the Fort of Coudray, thus fortifying the western side of the fortress.
8- King Philip Augustus had the fort’s 25-metre-high defensive tower erected, where at the beginning of the 14th century, Philip the Fair imprisoned the Knights Templar during their infamous trial .
9- The castle’s chapel was situated on the upper floor of the 12th-century Tour de Boissy.
10- The Tour du Château was originally used as a dungeon.
11- Louis XI transformed the Tour d’Argenton, built in the 15th century, into a jail, where he imprisoned his opponents in cramped and squalid cells, which he cynically nicknamed “his little cuties.”
12- Finally, as its name suggests, the Tour des Chiens – Dogs Tower once housed the royal kennels. Beautifully restored, the tower boasts great views of the picturesque vineyards of Chinon that stretches as far as the eye can see.
Medieval town
The medieval fortified town, aptly named Ville Fort (Fortified Town), was entirely encircled by sturdy . Nestled at the foot of the imposing Château de Chinon, its picturesque streets wind along the hillside, lined with half-timbered houses featuring corner towers, mullioned windows, carved beams, and steeply pitched roofs.
1- The Maison Rouge (Red House) and the Hôtel du Gouvernement (Government House) overlook the lively Grand Carroi, the market square and historic heart of Chinon.
2- The Rue Haute-Saint-Maurice, an ancient Gallic road running along the hillside at the foot of the Château de Chinon, is home to monuments such as the Hôtel Bodard de la Jacopière and the Hostellerie Gargantua, where Francois Rabelais‘ father practised as a notary.
The Hôtel des États Généraux, built at the end of the 15th century, takes its name from the French parliament that met there in 1428 to authorise the release of funds for Charles VII’s war effort against the English. It is now home to the Musée du Vieux Chinon and de la Batellerie (Old Chinon and River Transport)
3- The Musée Animé du Vin (Wine Museum) on Rue Voltaire retraces the history of local wine.
4- Legend has it that when Joan of Arc arrived in Chinon, she dismounted in the street that now bears her name.
5- The philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712-1778) lived on a street that was also named in his honour.
6- The 15th-century Church of Saint-Étienne is renowned for its magnificent Flamboyant Gothic portal.
7- A steep alleyway, lined with ancient troglodytic dwellings (rock shelters), connects the Romanesque Church of Saint-Mexme to the Church of Sainte-Radegonde. The latter, named in honour of the wife of King Clotaire I (6th century), was built ove the tomb of an old hermit who lived in rock shelter where he frequently received visits from Queen Radegonde.
Finally, one of the most popular events in Chinon’s old town is the medieval market held every August. Jugglers, fire-eaters, minstrels, and many other performers bring the Middle Ages to life through colourful street performances.
Department of Indre-et-Loire
Coordinates: Lat 47.167862 – Long 0.236657
