Sainte-Marie Abbey in Souillac
Nestled between Sarlat and Rocamadour in the heart of the historic Quercy, Souillac-sur-Dordogne developed around the Benedictine Abbaye Sainte-Marie.
In the 12th century, monks undertook the ambitious project of draining a marsh on the north bank of the Dordogne to establish their abbey.
This work gave birth to the village, initially named Souillès, derived from the Occitan word “Souilh“, designating a marsh where wild boars wallow, a term that evolved into “soue“, meaning pigsty.
The village was enclosed withing a rampart pierced by five gates.
However, these fortifications proved insufficient to protect the abbey from the ravages of the Hundred Years’ War and the Wars of Religion, when it was mostly destroyed, except for the church dedicated to Sainte Marie.
The monks rebuilt their abbey in the 17th century.
Unfortunately, the abbey was seized and became state property during the French Revolution a century later, but the church once again escaped demolition.
The abbey church of Sainte-Marie boasts a remarkable Byzantine-inspired architecture, particularly visible in its domes, which are reminiscent of those of the Saint-Front Cathedral in Périgueux.
It also boasts a wealth of exceptional Romanesque sculptures, notably the famous bas-relief representing Isaiah.
Saint-Martin Church
However, the Saint-Martin Church, which served as the parish church until the French Revolution, was not so lucky, as little of it remains.
It stood near the Porte Barnicou (gate), one of the medieval city’s five gates.
The church was built in the 12th century, but underwent significant renovations at the end of the 15th and beginning of the 16th century, followed by further alterations in the 17th century.
Although much of the Romanesque structure has disappeared, a portion of the tympanum, depicting Christ surrounded by the Virgin Mary and Saint Martin, survives; however, only one angel remains visible from the original composition.
Despite the damage caused by the Wars of Religion, the single nave and vaulted transept were preserved.
However, the bell tower was severely damaged as it served as a defensive tower.The ruins were restored in 2005.
After the French Revolution, Saint-Martin became state property. The apse was later replaced by a building which now houses the Tourist Office.
From 1825 to 1985, the church also served as the town hall of Souillac before being transformed into a vast exhibition hall.
Souillac is a charming town that can easily be explored in half a day.
For those who cannot do without a connection, the Tourist Office offers free Wi-Fi access; All you have to do is ask for the code. And of course, most cafes and bistros offer an access code when you buy a drink!
Department of Lot
Coordinates: Lat 44.893626 – Long 1.478613
Photo via Wikimedia Commons: Low relief by PMRMaeyaert CC BY-SA 3.0 – Prophet Isaie by Franzrycou CC BY-SA 3.0
