Singing the Blues in Pastel
Pastel (or woad for English speakers), or Isatis tinctoria, is a plant of unassuming appearance.
Yet, its history is long!
Indeed, the marvellous blue dye it produces made the fortunes of many large cities in southwestern France. At its peak, in the 16th and 17th centuries, in the triangle formed by Toulouse, Albi, and Carcassonne, woad was nicknamed “blue gold.”
The wealthy woad merchants of Toulouse displayed their riches in sumptuous mansions, many of which still stand. One of them, Jean de Bernuy, was wealthy enough to stand surety for King Francis I, who was ransomed after his capture at the Battle of Pavia by Charles V of Spain!
An English traveller wrote: “Woad… has made this country the happiest and richest in Europe.”
A large portion of the woad produced in the Blue Gold Triangle was used for the local textile industry. It was also exported via Bayonne, Narbonne, and Bordeaux to Flanders, the Netherlands, Italy, and especially Great Britain and Spain.
Indigofera tinctoria versus isatis tinctoria
The dye extracted from the plant is indigo, the same as that extracted from “true indigo,” indigofera tinctoria, but in a lower concentration.
However, following the European discovery of the sea route to India, large quantities of indigo were imported from Asia. Laws were therefore enacted in certain regions of Europe to protect their local woad industry from competition from the indigo trade.
Thus, in France, King Henry IV issued an edict in 1609, prohibiting anyone from using “this false and pernicious Indian drug” under penalty of death!
However, in the 19th century, the use of Isatis tinctoria declined in favour of Indigofera tinctoria despite Napoleon’s edict ordering that all uniforms of his army be dyed with woad.
Indigofera tinctoria was indeed more durable, and the price-to-quality ratio was significantly better. That said, French pastel is currently experiencing a resurgence in popularity and is a guarantee of quality craftsmanship.
Extracting pastel from isatis tinctoria
Extracting dye from Isatis tinctoria was a long and arduous process.
This plant grows like a weed in sunny, well-drained soil, but that’s the only easy part. The leaves were harvested when their edges began to turn purple.
During the heyday of woad, these leaves were ground in a woad mill. They were then shaped by hand (usually by children, as they have smaller hands) into a ball about 15 cm in diameter: the famous cocagne.
These cocagnes were then stacked in huge drying sheds and left to dry for six months, until they were very hard.
They could then be transported to the dye processing facility. The round shape of the cocagne made it easy to pack and allowed the balls to retain air pockets once stacked, thus ensuring air circulation and continued drying. As with wine, the longer the woad dried, the better the resulting colour.
But we’re only halfway there.
Once they arrived at their destination, the woad was ground again. It was then spread out, sprinkled with water, and left to ferment, a process called couchage.
Finally, it was left to dry in the sun. Once dry, the woad was ready for the dyer who placed it in a vat and added potash or urine.
This mixture fermented for three days before the dye bath was ready. The fabric to be dyed was soaked for a day, and was then exposed to the sun, where it turned blue as it dried.
Nowadays, chemists in Toulouse can carry out this process in three hours.
Modern day Pastel cottage industry
Pastel is experiencing a resurgence in popularity, and a dynamic industry is in full development in Toulouse and the surrounding area.
Most woad plants are now cultivated in the Ariège department, south of Toulouse.
The dye produces a particularly attractive shade of blue, which could be described as Wedgwood blue.
Resistant to fading, it can withstand washing at temperatures up to 60°C. This dye is also known for its natural fungicidal and insecticidal properties.
The essential oil extracted from the seeds and their husks is renowned for its healing and anti-ageing benefits.
You will find numerous retailers in Toulouse, Albi, Lautrec, Cordes-sur-Ciel, and other towns in southwestern France.
Department of Tarn
Credits: Photos and Text by Helene Barratt Les Heures Claires – Article edited by and for travelfranceonline.com – Photo Wikimedia Commons: Header by Stefan.lefnaer CC BY-SA 4.0 – Isatis Tinctoria by Pethan CC BY-SA 3.0
