Sainte-Cécile Cathedral in Albi
Albi, the prefecture of the Tarn department, was at the heart of one of the deadliest religious wars, known as the Albigensian Crusade.
History tells us that in 1145, Saint Bernard went to preach to the Albigensians, who had converted to Catharism. Thus, not receiving the enthusiastic welcome he felt he deserved, he took revenge by calling the Albigensians heretics.
It also turns out that the Bishop of Albi was a supporter of Simon de Montfort , who spread terror throughout southwestern France between 1208 and 1229 under the aegis of the Roman Catholic Church.
This religious campaign tragically ended with the persecution and extermination of the Cathars.
Once the “heretics” were eradicated, the Church of Rome built the magnificent Cathédrale sainte-Cécile to consolidate its power. Construction took place from 1277 to 1380.
It was consecrated in 1480, upon the completion of the great chancel, adorned with flamboyant statues and sculptures and a superb rood screen.
Sainte-Cécile is certainly magnificent, but its style will not necessarily appeal to everyone. Its architecture and that of the next door Bishop’s Palace, the Palais Berbie, also made of brick, are exceptional but unusual.
The cathedral’s interior is entirely painted, with a magnificent Last Judgment completed at the end of the 15th century. The frescoes on the walls and vault were created at the beginning of the 16th century.
The 18th-century organ built by Christophe Moucharel is stunning. Each summer, a season of organ concerts attracts the greatest performers from all over the world.
The Berbie Palace, whose architecture has evolved since its origins as a fortress, now houses the other magnificent collection of works by the painter Toulouse-Lautrec, a native of the Tarn region. The museum is beautifully laid out and also offers other exhibitions throughout the year.
One of the best spots in the palace is undoubtedly the garden, which offers a breathtaking view of the Tarn.
Albi, old town
The tourist office will give you a free and practical map that divides the city into three walking routes: medieval, 16th/17th centuries and the riverbanks. The latter will take you to the other side of the Tarn for a brief exploration of the Left Bank.
You can also take a boat trip on the Tarn, stroll along its banks and stop for a picnic or to enjoy the best ice cream in France. They even make foie gras pâté ice cream to order!
Albi is a splendid city where it is pleasant to stroll. Stroll through its pink-hued medieval streets, have a coffee in the main square or admire the shop windows.
You can also discover it aboard a little white train that will take you gently through the streets. It runs year-round except in February; boat trips take place from mid-June to mid-September, and horse-drawn carriage rides from April to September.
Albi – Capital of the Land of Plenty – Pays de Cocagne
The pragmatism of the Bishop of Albi ensured the city’s prosperity in the Middle Ages.
However, its continued wealth came from another source, one that was far less politically conflictual. It actually came from a small yellow flower, woad or pastel, or isatis tinctoria, its scientific name, whose flower looks very much like rapeseed.
However, it was the use of its leaves that made Albi and the Tarn department rich from the 15th to the 18th century. The crushed leaves are moulded into a small, compact ball called cocagne. These balls were laid to rest so the colour would gain in intensity and depth over time. Woad was the source of blue dye throughout Europe. Cocagne-Cockaigne was known as the Pays de Cocagne, the Land of Sweet Content or Land of Plenty.
Shops selling pastel-tinted products and essential oils can be found throughout the Tarn region, particularly in Albi, Lautrec and Cordes-sur-Ciel.
Pastel allows us to obtain a blue of exceptional beauty, quite close to Wedgwood blue. It is experiencing a resurgence in popularity as a paint for shutters. It is environmentally friendly and possesses natural insecticidal and fungicidal properties. However, it is rather expensive!
Tarn department
Coordinates: Lat 43.928340 – Long 2.142611
Credits: Photos and Text for Albi byHelene Barratt – Les Heures Claires – Article edited by and for travelfranceonline.com – Photos via Wikimedia Commons: Header by Pom² CC BY-SA 3.0 – Interior of Ste-Cecile Cathedral by FrDr CC BY-SA 4.0
