Grottes de Jonas – Cave dwellings
The Grottes de Jonas are a spectacular group of troglodytic dwellings located in the commune of Saint-Pierre-Colamine, about 50 kilometres southwest of Clermont-Ferrand.
This exceptional site, now open to the public, was inhabited from prehistoric times until the French Revolution. These caves, formed by natural erosion over millennia, were enlarged and converted into dwellings over the centuries. Although traces of prehistoric settlement have been found, the first known inhabitants were the Celts, who, around 400 BC, used vvolcanic tuff to build a fortified village inside the natural rock shelters.
At the end of the 10th century, it is believed that cenobitic monks, seeking solitude and spiritual retreat, occupied the Grottes de Jonas. However, the monastery’s existence was short-lived, as medieval religious communities were often subject to the power of local lords, leading to the disappearance of many of them.
The peasants of the surrounding valley found refuge in these ancient cave dwellings during the Hundred Years War and reinforced the fortifications to protect themselves from English attacks. Documents from 1316 do indeed refer to a “castrum seu repayrium,” a small fortified place.
Today, only vestiges of these rudimentary fortifications remain, except for a small defensive structure, partially carved into the rock. Perched on the edge of the cliff, this defensive structure, whose walls are pierced with loopholes, had a commanding view of the surrounding countryside.
Manoir des Grottes de Jonas
At the height of their occupation, the Grottes de Jonas formed a veritable village, equipped with essential amenities such as a chapel and even a manor house for the local lord.
In the Middle Ages, knights resided at their lord’s court, but in the 13th century, they received fiefs and permission to build their own manors as a reward for their support during various conflicts.
Will we ever know the name of the knight who received the Caves of Jonas and the surrounding lands as a fief? It’s unlikely.
What we do know, though, from the remains is that the Manor of the Grottes de Jonas started as a large hall carved directly into the rock. It was enlarged over time with new structures carved into the rock and overhanging the cliff, including a central tower, a symbol of nobility.
Village des Grottes de Jonas
The village comprised around sixty troglodytic houses, linked by a complex network of corridors and tunnels. Spread over four levels, these dwellings were connected by staircases carved into the cliff face, as well as by a spectacular main spiral staircase of 89 steps.
Unfortunately, in 1706, part of the Romanesque chapel collapsed, but most of the frescoes adorning the walls remained intact. These intricate works of art are considered masterpieces of Auvergne Romanesque art. They depict five themes: The denial of Peter, The placing of the crown of thorns, The descent from the cross, The discovery of the empty tomb, and The Virgin and Child.
The chapel remained in use until the French Revolution, however, the village and the manor house fell into disuse from the 17th century onward, gradually succumbing to abandonment and neglect. Some structures were converted into dovecotes, while others were left in ruins.
The Grottes de Jonas were restored in the early 2000s and opened to the public. Countless vestiges of daily life were preserved, ranging from the communal bread oven to the living rooms, bedrooms, attics, and cellars of the dwellings. Surprisingly, these remains also include latrines equipped with rudimentary washbasins, a remarkably rare feature for the Middle Ages.
The Grottes de Jonas are located a stone’s throw from the Fairy Chimney in Cotteuges. These two sites can therefore easily be visited in half a day.
Department of Puy-de-Dôme – Saint-Pierre-Colamine – Auvergne region
Coordinates Grottes de Jonas: Lat 45.540112 – Long 2.992079
Credits: Photos and source text by cpauvergne –Jean Piludu
