Francesco Procopio
Le Procope stands as one of Paris’s iconic café-restaurants, and is the oldest café in the city! Nestled at no.13 Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie in the famed Saint-Germain-des-Prés district, it has become a symbol of Parisian cultural heritage. Today, coffee is an integral part of our daily lives, but its introduction to Paris was a relatively late development. The beverage made its way to Constantinople in 1555, later imported by the Venetians in 1615.
It wasn’t until 1670 that coffee arrived in Paris, courtesy of Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli, a resourceful young nobleman from Palermo. Procopio’s entrepreneurial spirit led him to open a street stall, where he began selling coffee by the cup. Eventually, he secured employment as a clerk at Pascal‘s cafe, the official establishment operating within the Foire Saint-Germain. Established by King Louis II in 1482 on the grounds of the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, this annual fair drew visitors not only from across France but also from throughout Europe. It remained a significant economic and social event until the onset of the French Revolution.
Le Procope, the first Parisian café
As Procopio’s coffee business flourished, he eventually amassed enough savings to establish his own enterprise. Renting a stall at the fair, he capitalized on the rapidly growing popularity of coffee, which quickly became a beloved beverage among Parisians.
In 1675, Procopio took a significant step forward by purchasing a small shop on rue de Tournon. However, it was in 1684 that he made a pivotal move, relocating his establishment to Rue des Fossés-Saint-Germain, now known as Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie. Situated just a stone’s throw away from the colleges of the Latin Quarter, this new location proved to be strategically advantageous.
The year 1689 marked a significant turning point for Le Procope’s success. The renowned Comédie Française theatre moved into new premises directly opposite the cafe. With coffee quickly becoming the latest trend among actors and theater patrons, Le Procope became their preferred gathering spot.
Procopio, with his Italian background and appreciation for beauty, spared no expense in furnishing the cafe. He imported luxurious mirrors to adorn the walls and decorated the interior with exquisite refinement, attracting an exclusive clientele of regular patrons. In addition to serving coffee, tea, chocolate, and various liqueurs, he introduced a novel dessert that was virtually unheard of at the time: ice cream.
By the time Procopio retired in 1716, Le Procope had solidified its reputation as the most prominent cafe-restaurant in Paris. He passed the business on to his son Alexandre, ensuring the continuation of the esteemed establishment’s legacy.
Under Alexandre’s stewardship, Le Procope continued to thrive, attracting a new wave of clientele: the intellectual elite and great writers of the 18th century. It transformed into not only the first literary cafe-restaurant in Paris but also in the entire world. For over two centuries, famous and lesser-known writers, philosophers, intellectuals, and politicians convened at Le Procope, making it a hub of intellectual discourse and creative exchange. The cafe’s walls echoed with the voices of luminaries, its tables serving as the stage for literary and philosophical debates.
Voltaire famously regarded Le Procope as his “office,” where he engaged in spirited discussions and penned some of his most influential works. Diderot, too, found inspiration within its walls, spending countless hours drafting entries for his monumental “Encyclopédie.” D’Alembert and Jean de La Fontaine were among the esteemed regulars who contributed to the cafe’s vibrant intellectual atmosphere.
Despite Alexandre’s death in 1753, Le Procope remained a beacon of intellectual enlightenment, preserving its legacy as a living testament to Parisian history and culture.
Le Procope, the lair of the Parisan intelligentsia
Le Procope experienced a series of ownership changes following the departure of the Comédie Française in 1770, which led to a decline in its influence. However, the cafe saw a resurgence in popularity in 1782 when the theater relocated to the nearby Place de l’Odeon, drawing comedians and artists back to its doors, including notable figures like Beaumarchais.
Situated in the heart of Paris, Le Procope became a gathering place for the leaders of the French Revolution, with prominent figures such as Danton, Robespierre, and Marat frequenting the establishment. It is said that they even had their own designated napkin rings at the cafe. Legend has it that Napoleon Bonaparte, then a young and impoverished corporal, left his hat as collateral, a relic now displayed at the entrance.
Le Procope was rumored to have been a setting for historic moments, with tales suggesting that Benjamin Franklin wrote portions of the American Constitution within its walls. After Robespierre’s execution, Zoppi, the proprietor at the time, attempted to revive the literary cafe, but the scars of the Revolution lingered, impeding its success.
However, in the 19th century, Le Procope once again became a hub for literary giants of the Romantic era. Writers such as Victor Hugo, George Sand, Théophile Gautier, Anatole France, Balzac, and Alfred de Musset frequented its tables. Despite these illustrious patrons, the cafe struggled to reclaim its former glory until the 1860s, when the rising political star Gambetta began frequenting the establishment.
This brief resurgence was short-lived, and Le Procope was eventually sold at auction in 1872. However, under the ownership of Baroness Thénard, the cafe’s character was preserved. Over time, it evolved to accommodate various companies and artistic circles, eventually transforming into a more affordable restaurant.
During this period, notable figures like Verlaine and Oscar Wilde frequented Le Procope, with Wilde reportedly enjoying the ambiance so much that he remained until closing time on many occasions.
Modern day Procope
Le Procope underwent numerous changes in ownership until its reopening in 1952, during which it reclaimed its status as a literary cafe. Since then, it has hosted prestigious award ceremonies, including the ‘Black Humor Prize’ since 1954, the ‘Jean-Zay Prize’ since 2005, and the ‘Prix Procope des Lumières’ since 2011.
In 1988/89, Le Procope underwent a full refurbishment while preserving its original style and ambiance. One of its rooms is adorned with the text of the ‘Declaration of the Rights of Man and Citizen of 1789’, and the decor features numerous objects and documents related to the French Revolution, including Napoleon’s iconic cocked hat and a commemorative plaque dedicated to Procopio.
The cafe’s decor also incorporates elements of humor, such as the toilet doors bearing the inscriptions ‘Citoyens’ and ‘Citoyennes’ (a reference to the Revolution) instead of the traditional ‘Hommes/Femmes’.
Le Procope’s main entrance is situated on Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, featuring wrought iron balconies and a roof classified as Historical Monuments. Additionally, the back entrance in Cour du Commerce Saint-André boasts a facade adorned with various memorabilia and paintings, making it truly unique.
Directions: 6th district – 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comédie
Metro: Saint Germain des Prés on Line 4
Coordinates: Lat 48.853060 – Long 2.338801
