Foundation of the Hôtel des Invalides
The Hôtel des Invalides is not a single building, but a complex encompassing a military hospital, two churches, and several military museums.
The origins of this historic site date back to the 17th century.
In 1604, King Henri IV founded the Maison Royale de la Charité, a hospital and retirement home for disabled veterans, in the 5th arrondissement of Paris. Sadly, this institution closed after his assassination in 1610.
In 1634, Cardinal de Richelieu founded a similar institution, the Commanderie Saint-Louis, at the Château de Bicêtre, south of Paris. However, this establishment also failed to achieve lasting success.
Louis XIV finally succeeded where his predecessors had failed! He commissioned the architect Libéral-Bruant to build a hospital for disabled and elderly soldiers who had served in his armies.
The king laid the foundation stone of the Hôpital Royal des Invalides on September 30, 1671, and was inaugurated with great pomp in 1706.
Liberal-Bruant facade
The north facade of the Hôtel des Invalides is a remarkable example of French classical architecture.
It indeed boasts a magnificent Mansard roof and corner pavilions, with cornices and sculptures that soften its otherwise austere lines.
The central pavilion, designed as a triumphal arch, is adorned with a sculpture of Louis XIV as a Roman emperor, the work of Guillaume Coustou.
This imposing pavilion leads to the Cour d’Honneur (Court of Honour), where several Russian cannons captured by Napoleon I in Vienna in 1805 are displayed. Four identical buildings surround this 102-m-long and 63-m-wide inner courtyard, making it the heart of the Hôtel des Invalides.
Saint-Louis-des-Invalides Church
The architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart created a “double” chapel:
The chapel for veterans, known as Saint-Louis-des-Invalides, and an adjoining royal chapel, the Église du Dôme (Church of the Dome).
Originally, these two chapels were connected so that the king and the veterans could attend Mass together.
Saint-Louis-des-Invalides was completed in 1677 and is now accessible only through the Cour d’Honneur (Court of Honour).
The crypt of Saint-Louis-des-Invalides houses the tombs of the governors of the Hôtel des Invalides. It also contains the remains of 420 soldiers from the Napoleonic era, the First World War, and the Second World War, as well as 150 flags captured on various battlefields. Today, Saint-Louis-des-Invalides serves as the cathedral for the French armed forces.
Dôme des Invalides
Hardouin-Mansart began construction of the Dôme des Invalides (Royal Chapel) in 1677, and Robert de Cotte completed it in 1708. Initially connected to Saint-Louis-des-Invalides, the two chapels were later separated by two altars placed back-to-back, and then by a glass partition.
The Dôme des Invalides, largely inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, is a magnificent example of French Baroque architecture. Its facade is adorned with Corinthian and Doric columns, as well as statues representing the fundamental virtues and French sovereigns such as Emperor Charlemagne and King Louis IX, works by Coysevox and Coustou.
The dome, which rises 107 metres above the ground, is covered with gilded lead tiles and decorated with sculptures. It is surmounted by a lantern supporting a pyramid topped with a globe.
The interior decor pays homage to Louis XIV and his armies through a wealth of sculptures, trophies, reliefs, statues, medallions, and paintings, including the dome’s ceiling by Charles Le Brun. The floor is adorned with a finely crafted marble mosaic featuring Fleur-de-Lys motifs, the symbol of the French monarchy, and the monogram of Louis XIV.
The side chapels house the tombs of Generals Bertrand and Duroc, Marshals Turenne, Vauban, Lyautey, and Foch, as well as two of Napoleon’s brothers and his son, the King of Rome (L’Aiglon). The open crypt contains the tomb of Emperor Napoleon.
Crypt of the Dome Church
Twisted columns of white marble support the canopy that opens onto the corridor leading to Napoleon’s tomb. The grandeur of the entrance is further accentuated by the door, cast from the bronze of cannons captured at the Battle of Austerlitz, and flanked by two statues by the sculptor Duret.
The lintel is engraved with Napoleon’s last wish:
“I wish my ashes to rest on the banks of the Seine near the people I so loved…” – “I would like my ashes to rest on the banks of the Seine near the people I so loved…”
Twenty-six marble steps descend to a circular gallery whose walls are adorned with ten low-reliefs sculpted by Simart, depicting significant episodes from Napoleon’s life. Twelve columns, each carved from a single block of stone, surround the emperor’s tomb, and Pradier sculpted the statues commemorating Napoleon’s twelve victories.
A black marble chapel houses a life-size statue of Napoleon as he appeared on the day of his coronation, as well as some of the emperor’s personal belongings, including the sword he used at the Battle of Austerlitz, the hat he wore at the Battle of Eylau, and his medals.
Tomb of Emperor Napoleon I
Napoleon’s tomb was placed in the crypt on April 2, 1861.
Born in Ajaccio, Corsica, in 1769, he died in 1821 on the island of Saint Helena, where he was held prisoner from 1815, following his second abdication.
His remains were repatriated to France on December 15, 1840, and initially interred in the Church of Saint Jerôme, pending the completion of the crypt.
The sculptor Visconti created the Emperor’s sarcophagus in red porphyry, which rests on a green granite pedestal. This sarcophagus contains six nested coffins. The innermost coffin, made of iron, contains an urn with Napoleon’s heart, placed at his feet. This coffin is placed inside a mahogany coffin, followed by two lead coffins, an ebony coffin, and an outer oak coffin.
Far from evoking a morbid atmosphere, the crypt exudes dignity and grandeur, reflecting Napoleon’s remarkable legacy as a statesman and strategist.
Army Museums
The Hôtel des Invalides houses several museums which relate the history of the French army, from the time of Louis XIV to the Second World War, and covering various military campaigns, colonial expeditions, and the evolution of military equipment and weaponry.
The Musée des Armées is a central feature, consisting of several specialized museums located in the outbuildings of the complex:
- The Musée des Plans Reliefs (Museum of Relief Maps) was founded in 1777 and presents a unique collection of 104 scale models of French and European cities fortified by Marshal Vauban, Commissioner General of Fortifications under the reign of Louis XIV.
- The Musée de l’Artillerie (Artillery Museum)was created in 1872and displays a vast collection of artillery pieces and related equipment.
- The Musée de l’Armée (Army Museum) was founded in 1896 and offers a comprehensive overview of the history and evolution of the French army.
- The Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération (Museum of the Order of the Liberation) was founded in 1905, this museum is dedicated to the history of the French Resistance and the liberation of France
- The Musée des Cartes Militaires (Museum of Military Maps) was created after the First World War, and displays a collection of military maps and cartographic documents that played a vital role in various military operations.
Gare des Invalides on the Esplanade
Robert de Cotte created the Esplanade des Invalides in 1704 on the former Pré-Saint-Germain, the meadows which belonged to Saint-Germain-des-Prés Abbey. This 12.5-hectare square stretches between the Hôtel des Invalides and the Seine River.
The esplanade served as the venue for the Universal Expositions of 1889 and 1900, which showcased the technological advancements of the era, but it was restored and replanted afterward.
The architect Juste Lisch built the Gare des Invalides for the 1900 Universal Exposition to illustrate the progress of transportation at the time. This Neo-Greek style station was the terminus of the electrified railway line connecting Paris to Versailles.
In 1946, the architect Jean-Baptiste Bigot transformed the building into a bus station, facilitating connections between Paris and the Orly and Bourget airports.
The Hôtel des Invalides and its many museums are great places to visit on rainy days.
Directions: 7th District
Metro: Invalides on Lines 8, 13
Coordinates: Lat 48.858157 – Long 2.312896
