Catacombes on Place Denfert-Rochereau
The Catacombes offer a journey into the depths of Paris’s underground, revealing a labyrinth of galleries lined with small crypts holding over six million skeletons, the remains of generations of Parisians.
Surprisingly, what is now known as Place Denfert-Rochereau was once dubbed Place d’Enfer (Hell’s Gate) prior to the French Revolution.
It stands in place of the Barrière d’Enfer, one of the tollgates situated on the Wall of the General Farmers constructed in the late 18th century.
Designed by the architect Claude Nicolas Ledoux, the tollgate comprised two square buildings, both of which are now designated Historical Monuments.
One of these buildings serves as the entrance to the Catacombes, offering a striking juxtaposition of history and modern exploration.
Why store skeletons in the underground of Paris?
The ancient origins of Paris, once known as Lutetia, can be traced back to the Ile de la Cité.
Over the centuries, the city expanded steadily along both banks of the River Seine, evolving from small villages into bustling districts by the 18th century.
As Paris grew, so too did its cemeteries!
Once situated outside the city limits, these burial grounds found themselves surrounded by dwellings and workshops, leading to overcrowding and serious sanitation issues.
Among them, the Cimetière des Innocents, near Les Halles, stood as the largest and oldest urban cemetery, dating back to the 10th century.
Recognizing the pressing need for action, the State Council ordered the closure of the cemetery in 1780 to prevent the spread of major epidemics. This marked a pivotal moment in Paris’s history as efforts were made to address the burgeoning challenges of urban development and public health.
The bones from the overcrowded cemetery were relocated to old underground quarries situated in the southern outskirts of the city, an area sparsely populated at the time.
Officially blessed and consecrated in 1786, the Catacombes began their role as the final resting place for over six million skeletons transferred from various Parisian cemeteries in the ensuing years.
Among the remains were those from notable parish churches such as St-Eustache, St-Landry, and St-André-des-Arts.
The Catacombes also received the remains of individuals who perished during the political conflicts that shook Paris between 1788 and 1792 (French Revolution).
In 1810-1811, they underwent enlargement and restoration, paving the way for guided tours to be conducted, offering visitors a unique glimpse into this macabre yet historically significant underground realm.
Catacombes, the resting place of 6 million Parisians
In an effort to create a less somber atmosphere, the bones in the Catacombes were arranged to form decorative patterns, showcasing skulls, tibiae, and femurs in intricate designs unique to each crypt. This approach aimed to offer a different perspective on death, moving away from the traditional dreariness associated with burial grounds.
During the Bourbon Restoration, bones from the Cimetière des Errancis were also transferred to the Catacombs. This cemetery, hastily opened by revolutionaries near Parc Monceau, served as the final resting place for 1,119 individuals guillotined during the Revolution.
Among the transferred remains were those of prominent figures such as Danton, Robespierre, and Madame Élisabeth, the sister of Louis XVI.
The closure of La Madeleine and Saint-Jacques-du-Haut-Pas marked the end of active use for Parisian cemeteries in 1850.
Stop, Here starts the World of the Dead
A 90-step stone spiral staircase takes you down to the depth of the underground necropolis.
“Arrête, c’est ici l’Empire de la Mort”
This verse by the poet Jacques Delille (1738-1813) adorns the lintel above the entrance door to the ossuary, welcoming you as you step into the Kingdom of the Dead.
Beyond this threshold, you will encounter not only crypts filled with bones, but also various unusual funeral monuments and objects, adding to the mysterious atmosphere of the Catacombs.
Each cemetery’s bones were meticulously stored in separate crypts, each marked with the name of its origin.
Poems and dedications to the Dead
The workmen who transformed the galleries in the early 19th century left their mark by carving inscriptions and poems into the walls, likely intended to invite visitors to reflect on the theme of death.
A small circular basin was named the Fontaine de Léthé or Fontaine de la Samaritaine, and engraved with verses from the Gospel.
The Autel de l’Obélisque, located in the Sacellum Crypt, resembles an ancient tomb.
The Crypte du Piedestal de la Lampe Sépulcrale houses the bones from Saint-Laurent Cemetery and stands as the Catacombs’ first constructed monument.
The Sarcophage du Lacrymatoire is shaped like a burial vault, and serves as both a structural reinforcement pillar and a reminder of mortality.
This monument is also referred to as the Tombeau de Gilbert, in homage to the verses composed by Nicolas Gilbert just a week before his death:
“Au banquet de la vie, infortuné convive
J’apparus un jour et je meurs;
Et sur ma tombe où lentement j’arrive,
Nul ne viendra verser des pleurs”.
Amazingly, the poet was not buried in the Catacombes.
Another pillar contains the heart of Gal Toussaint Campi, who died in 1832.
Fortress of Fort-Mahon
You will also encounter a well, painstakingly dug by the restoration workers in the old galleries. Its turquoise water provides a striking contrast to the surrounding darkness, offering a brief moment of color in an otherwise somber world.
However, the most renowned feature of the Catacombes is undoubtedly the model of the Fortress of Fort-Mahon.
Sculpted by Décure, also known as Beauséjour, between 1777 and 1782, this remarkable work of art captivates visitors with its intricate details and historical significance.
Décure, a veteran who served under Louis XV before contributing to the consolidation of the underground quarries, tragically lost his life in a landslide in one of the galleries shortly after completing his masterpiece.
Fontis
As you make your way out of the Catacombes, you’ll pass through two impressive sinkholes, each reaching heights of 11 meters and 12 meters.
These sinkholes, known as Fontis, are the result of localized collapses in the upper layers of the underground galleries. They offer a glimpse into the void upon which the houses of Paris are built, and remind us of the city’s intricate underground network.
Despite their imposing appearance, rest assured that the Catacombes are subject to constant monitoring to ensure the safety of visitors.
While they have never ceased to captivate crowds since their opening, it’s important to recognize that the experience may not be suitable for everyone.
Young children and those who are particularly sensitive may find the darkness of the galleries and the sight of millions of skulls and bones to be overwhelming.
It’s essential to consider your own comfort levels before embarking on this unique and sometimes eerie journey through Paris’s underground catacombs.
Note: Flash photography is forbidden in the galleries.
Directions: 14th district – no2 Place Denfert-Rochereau
Metro: Denfert-Rochereau on Lines 4,6 and RER B
Coordinates: Lat 48.833876 – Long 2.332358
