Before the Landes Forest existed
Landes is both a department and a vast natural region located in southwestern France, south of Bordeaux. Although the department was officially created during the French Revolution in 1790 from portions of the former provinces of Guyenne and Gascony, the Landes Forest was planted in the mid-19th century.
Before this man-made forest existed, the northern part of the region was mostly flat and covered in heath-land. Local farmers managed the land using an age-old method called controlled burning, which purified and prepared the soil for agriculture. The sandy, damp soil was not ideal for crops but was perfectly suited to sheep farming. The sheep produced a natural fertilizer that the inhabitants used to grow rye, one of the few grains capable of thriving in these conditions.
A unique tradition developed among the shepherds: they watched over their flocks from atop tall stilts. This gave them a better view of the flat landscape and allowed them to move quickly over long distances. Over time, these shepherds on stilts became an iconic symbol of the Landes region.
Conversely, the more fertile southern Landes was characterized by its gentle hills and wooded areas. These lands, already cultivated, were far more productive than those in the north.
The Landes de Gascogne Forest, Europe’s largest forest
The Landes Forest, officially called the Forêt des Landes de Gascogne, is the largest forest in Europe. It stretches in a broad triangle covering approximately 1.3 million hectares, primarily in the Landes and Gironde departments, and partly in western Lot-et-Garonne.
Unlike many French forests, this one is mostly privately owned, with only a few plots managed by the state. The region’s sandy, acidic, and nutrient-poor soil is unsuitable for traditional crops, but it is ideal for one tree species: the maritime pine. As a result, the pine dominates the landscape, covering 90% of the forest area.
The forest is renowned for its unique ecosystem. The coastal dunes, exposed to sea spray, support low-lying, hardy vegetation adapted to these harsh conditions. Further inland, the forest is mainly composed of maritime pines, but ancient patches of native forest can still be found. These remnants of a natural mixed forest have existed for millennia and include species such as holm oak, cork oak, birch, alder, willow, and holly, all perfectly adapted to the local climate and soil. Two thousand years ago, this original forest covered approximately 200,000 hectares.
The creation of the Landes Forest
Over the centuries, much of the original forest gradually disappeared, giving way to wet heath-land unsuitable for agriculture. At the same time, the coastal area was under constant pressure from strong sea winds that pushed the sand dunes, threatening the surrounding land and villages.
To combat this phenomenon, maritime pines had long been planted to stabilize the shifting dunes.
One of the earliest documented attempts to plant pines further inland, in the wet lowlands, dates back to 1713. However, it was not until 1857 that a major transformation reshaped the identity and ecology of the region: a law was passed to drain and improve the wet heath-land for cultivation and to eradicate malaria, which was then rampant in the area. Under this new regulation, the municipalities of Landes and Gironde were required to systematically plant pine trees to stabilize the coastal dunes and reclaim these once inhospitable lands.
This large-scale reforestation effort gave rise to the vast pine forest we see today, but unfortunately also marked the end of the agro-pastoral way of life.
The Exploitation of the Landes Forest
However, the planting of the Landes forest was not a sudden process. It was carried out gradually and somewhat haphazardly at first, without much planning regarding fire risks or access to at-risk areas.
The first generation of maritime pines reached maturity at the beginning of the 20th century, paving the way for large-scale forestry operations, particularly for sap harvesting (known as resin tapping) and timber production. Harvesting the sap involved making incisions in the bark of the pine trees to collect the sap in terracotta pots. This sticky sap, often called the “white gold” of the Landes, was used to produce turpentine and rosin. Although this technique dates back to Gallo-Roman times, it began to be used on a more semi-industrial scale in the 17th century and developed considerably in the 19th century, especially after reforestation replaced the old agro-pastoral economy.
Landes timber has traditionally been used for various purposes: making pitch (to waterproof ships), construction, charcoal, and, more recently, paper pulp.
Over time, this forest, once planted to stabilize the land, has become an important economic resource for the region, supporting both local industries and rural livelihoods.
The rebirth of the Landes Forest
In 1949, a massive fire ravaged half of the Landes forest, primarily the area between Arcachon and Bordeaux. In response, reforestation efforts were undertaken with a new priority: fire prevention. Pine trees were replanted in regular rows, with wide firebreaks, roads, and open spaces between the plots, designed to slow the spread of flames and facilitate firefighters’ access to at-risk areas.
The resin industry, once essential to the regional economy, also began to decline. Foreign competition made production too expensive, particularly in countries where labour was cheaper. Furthermore, petroleum products began to replace turpentine and rosin. In 1990, after nearly 2,000 years of continuous activity, the resin industry in the Landes region came to an end!
Over the following decades, parts of the forest were cleared for agriculture, particularly corn, a water-intensive crop that also contributed to drying out the region’s wetlands.
Then came another blow: the 2009 storm. Violent winds uprooted countless trees, devastating vast swathes of forest. Knowing that it takes approximately 50 years for a pine forest to reach full maturity, many landowners faced a difficult choice: replant or not? With the decline of the resin industry and the weakening of the timber sector, many opted instead to convert their land, either to intensive agriculture or to the development of solar farms.
Landes Forest’s timeless beauty
Despite the many challenges it has faced over the years, the Landes forest remains a magnificent region, brimming with natural charm. The air is thick with the scent of pine resin, and a gentle breeze caresses the majestic maritime pines. If you listen closely, you might even hear the distant murmur of Atlantic waves breaking on the fine sandy beaches that stretch as far as the eye can see.
However, all is not idyllic. Like many coastal regions, the Landes has suffered from excessive real estate development that is gradually altering the character of its once peaceful seaside villages.
Wikimedia Commons: Header by Franck Lefebvre-Billiez is CC BY-SA 4.0 – Map by Cabaussel, 2006 is CC BY-SA 2.5 – Resin tapping by Jibi44 is CC BY 3.0 – Shepherd on stilts is Public Domain – Maritime pines by Arnaud 25 is Public Domain – Driving through the forest by Szeder László is CC BY-SA 4.0
