Oratory of Saint Germain l’Auxerrois
Saint Germain l’Auxerrois Church replaces an ancient chapel and a baptistery. The earliest known structure was built around 500 AD to commemorate the visit of St. Germanus, the Bishop of Auxerre.
Three centuries later, the area faced frequent flooding from the Seine, and a baptistery was constructed to baptize the children who perished in these floods. At the time, the area was indeed a vast marshland scattered with small hamlets.
These early religious buildings laid the foundation for the development of what would become Saint Germain l’Auxerrois Church.
Saint Germain l’Auxerrois, the parish church of the kings of France
King Robert the Pious rebuilt Saint Germain l’Auxerrois in the early 11th century.
The church’s importance grew in the 1180s when Philip-Augustus enclosed the Rive Droite within a perimeter wall and constructed the Louvre fortress and Les Halles covered market. Given its proximity to the Louvre, Saint Germain l’Auxerrois was expanded and became the parish church for the kings of France.
One of the architectural highlights of the church is the superb Gothic entrance porch, crafted by master mason Jean Gaussel and completed in 1439. This porch, along with that of the Sainte Chapelle, is one of the oldest in Paris. The statues that adorning it were restored in the 19th century, with the most damaged being replaced.
Despite continuous enlargements and alterations over the centuries, the church has retained its original Romanesque bell tower. However, the spire was removed in the 18th century and replaced with a balustrade.
The church’s single bell, named Mary and cast in 1529, is infamously known for ringing the signal that initiated the Saint-Bartholomew’s day massacre on August 24, 1572.
Saint Germain l’Auxerrois Church’s interior
Saint Germain l’Auxerrois Church features the magnificent 13th-century Chapelle du Saint Sacrement, which is renowned as a masterpiece of Gothic architecture.
It conatins a 15th-century polychrome wooden statue of St. Germanus and a 14th-century painted stone representation of St. Mary of Egypt.
The church’s architectural evolution spans several centuries. The Gothic chancel and the first bay of the Chapelle de la Vierge were indeed constructed in the 14th century, followed by the nave a century later. The transept and chapels surrounding the chancel were added during the 16th century, reflecting the architectural style of the French Renaissance.
Saint Germain l’Auxerrois Church, with its rich history and diverse architectural influences, culminated in its completion around 1580, representing a harmonious blend of Gothic and Renaissance elements.
The 17th century mutilations
The canons’ efforts to modernize Saint Germain l’Auxerrois Church led to significant alterations during the 17th and 18th centuries.
In an era when Gothic architecture was deemed outdated, they initiated drastic transformations, which included the destruction of the tympanum of the portal and the Renaissance rood screen crafted by Jean Goujon and Pierre Lescot.
They also painted over the murals and vaults of the chancel in white and undertook redecoration and carving of the pillars and capitals.
To introduce more light into the nave, they replaced the original 14th-century stained glass windows with translucent glass.
However, during the church’s restoration in the 19th century, skilled glass-painters replaced these translucent windows with the current stained glass windows.
Fortunately, the 16th-century windows located on both sides of the transept remained intact, preserving a glimpse of the church’s historical authenticity.
Post French Revolution
Saint Germain l’Auxerrois endured a tumultuous period during the French Revolution, and narrowly escaping destruction.
Its fate oscillated between various utilitarian purposes, serving as a saltpeter factory, a barn, a printing factory, and even a police station.
It then underwent a series of closures and re-openings.
In 1802, it was reopened to the public, only to be desecrated and closed again during the riots of February 1831. During this time, it briefly served as the town hall of the 4th district of Paris.
Officially re-opened in 1837, Saint Germain l’Auxerrois underwent extensive restoration efforts over the subsequent two decades. However, architects Lassus and Viollet-le-Duc faced significant challenges in restoring the church to its former glory.
The damage indeed inflicted during the transformations and mutilations of the 17th and 18th centuries presented obstacles that could not be entirely rectified.
A wealth of architectural features and art works
Saint Germain l’Auxerrois Church boasts a treasure trove of architectural features and artworks that span centuries.
Among its highlights are two 17th-century fonts adorned with intricately sculpted angels, as well as a stunning collection of Renaissance stained glass windows, including a magnificent rose window.
The church also boasts notable architectural elements such as a remarkable back door dating back to 1570 and a pulpit designed by renowned artists Charles Le Brun and Le Mercier, two 16th-century Flemish and French retables.
Beautiful 19th-century murals adorn the transept and chapels, while a superb organ built by Clicquot in 1771, contributes to its musical legacy.
Finally, many confuse the tower that overlooks the Place du Louvre for Saint Germain l’Auxerrois bell tower. This tower is in fact the belfry of the town hall of Paris’ 1st district.
Directions: 1st District – Place du Louvre
Metro: Louvre-Rivoli on Line 1Coordinates: Lat 48.859579 – Long 2.340874
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday 8am to 7pm – Sundays from 9am to 8pm
N.B. The Chapelle du Saint Sacrement is reserved for prayer and meditation and photos are not allowed.
