Puy de Dôme – Chaîne des Puys
The Puy de Dôme is one of the dormant volcanoes of the Chaîne des Puys, a remarkable group of 80 ancient volcanoes extending over 40 kilometres from north to south, in the heart of the Massif Central. These characteristic volcanic peaks, locally called “puys“, form the iconic landscape of the region.
Peaking at 1,465 metres, and only 15 kilometres from Clermont-Ferrand, the capital of Auvergne, the Puy de Dôme gave its name to the Puy-de-Dôme department, which was created in 1791. Its western flank is in the commune of Ceyssat, and its eastern slope and summit are in the commune of Orcines.
Its summit boasts an exceptional panorama of the Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d’Auvergne – Auvergne Volcanoes Regional Natural Park. On a clear day, you can see the entire Chaîne des Puys, the Monts Dore and the Monts du Cantal, as well as the Limousin, the Combrailles and the Plateau de Millevaches to the west.
Look towards the east, and you will see Clermont-Ferrand and the distant Monts du Forez, and on rare, exceptionally clear days, the silhouette of Mont Blanc on the horizon!
Chemin des Muletiers
You have only two routes to choose from to reach the summit of the Puy de Dôme: the Chemin des Chèvres (Goats’ Path), or Chemin des Muletiers, via the Col de Ceyssat, culminating at 1,078 meters. The ascent via the 350-m-long Chemin des Muletiers (Mules’ Path) usually takes about fifty minutes.
Once you reach the summit, you will be rewarded with breathtaking views of the Chaîne des Puys!
However, if walking isn’t your thing, you can board the Panoramique des Dômes, a 5.2-kilometre-long rack railway that will take you directly to the summit of the Puy de Dôme in 15 minutes.
Meteorological Observatory
An imposing 89-meter-high television relay antenna was built in 1957 at the summit of the Puy de Dôme. The Observatoire des Sciences de l’Univers (Observatory of Sciences of the Universe) was founded near it in 1986. This observatory, affiliated with the Blaise Pascal University of Clermont-Ferrand, is a cutting-edge research centre, equipped with state-of-the-art micro-physical and chemical instruments. Its purpose is the study of clouds and their composition, particularly their role in climate change and global warming.
Temple of Mercury
Recognizing without a doubt the exceptional altitude and strategic location of the Puy de Dôme, the Romans undertook a monumental project in the 2nd century AD: the construction of a colossal temple dedicated to their god Mercury, at its summit!
The foundations of this large building were uncovered during the construction works of the observatory. The Temple of Mercury covered an impressive area of more than 3,600 square metres. It was facing east to be visible from all points of the ancient city of Augustonemetum, present-day Clermont-Ferrand.
It was clearly an important place of pilgrimage within the Western Roman Empire, as evidenced by its architectural style, which reflected a harmonious fusion of Gallo-Roman and Greek influences. Archaeological excavations have revealed that Roman craftsmen built the temple with local volcanic rock, adorned its walls with marble and covered it with lead plates laid on a wooden frame.
Further excavations have unearthed the foundations of an older temple, built in the 1st century AD on the north side of the Temple of Mercury. This first structure was dismantled, and its stones repurposed for the construction of its more imposing successor.
According to Pline the Elder, the Gallic tribe of the Arvernes called upon the famous Greek sculptor Zenodorus to create a colossal statue of Mercury. Although it is assumed that this statue once adorned the summit of the Puy de Dôme, alongside the Temple of Mercury, no concrete evidence remains, and its exact location remains a mystery.
The pilgrims began their ascent of the Puy de Dôme on the Chemin des Muletiers. This steep path was part of the Via Agrippa, the ancient Roman road linking Lugdunum (Lyon) to Mediolanum Santonum (Saintes), north of Burdigala (Bordeaux) in Aquitaine Gaul.
Countless buildings were thus constructed along the path to offer rest stops and sustenance to pilgrims exhausted by the difficult climb. Excavations carried out between 1999 and 2003 unearthed remains of a small village that prospered at the Ceyssat Pass between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD. Nestled at an altitude of 1,078 metres, the modest hamlet was indeed the last stop before the summit, where pilgrims paid homage to their divinity.
Department of Puy de Dôme
Coordinates Puy de Dome: Lat 45.772466 – Long 2.964578
Credits: Source article Jean Piludu – Photos Wikimedia Commons: Header and photo2 by Calips CC BY-SA 3.0 – Temple de Mercure vestiges by Thesupermat CC BY-SA 3.0 – Aerial view by Aquila18 CC BY-SA 4.0
