Le Puy en Velay, the capital of Haute-Loire
Le Puy en Velay, capital of the Haute-Loire department, is nestled among impressive volcanic hills.
Since Emperor Charlemagne stayed there in the 8th century, it has been a major starting point for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Every morning, pilgrims flock to the cathedral to implore the Virgin Mary’s protection before embarking on their sacred journey.
Remarkably preserved from the ravages of time and history, the city abounds with treasures and is also renowned for its rich and varied cultural offerings, exhibitions, and historical monuments.
Le Puy en Velay is a true crossroads, attracting pilgrims, hikers, tourists, locals, and the simply curious during the pleasant summer season.
Rochers Corneille, Aiguilhe and Espaly
The statue of Notre-Dame de France (Our Lady of France) is perched atop the Rocher Corneille, watching benevolently over the city and the cathedral below.
This imposing statue was made from the melted Russian cannons captured during the Battle of Sevastopol and presented to the city in September 1860. A staircase leads to a viewing platform housed within a glass sphere.
The summit of Rocher d’Aiguilhe is home to the Chapelle Saint-Michel. Located some 85 metres above the ground, you will have to climb the 268 steps carved into the steep rock to reach this chapel, built in 962 to commemorate the return of the pilgrimage to Saint James of Compostela. It is said that Isabelle Romée, Joan of Arc‘s mother, came to pray in the small chapel during her visit in 1429.
You will finally discover the statue of Saint Joseph, perched atop the third volcanic spur, the Rocher Espaly.
Notre-Dame-du-Puy Cathedral and pilgrimage
In 1988, UNESCO inscribed Notre-Dame-du-Puy Cathedral on the World Heritage List, as part of the Way of St. James.
This 12th-century masterpiece harmoniously blends Romanesque and early Gothic styles.
Its main facade, built by alternating blocks of dark volcanic rock and white sandstone, is spectacular, as is its west facade which boasts three levels, each adorned with arcades of decreasing sizes.
The cloister is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture and borders the remains of the 13th-century rampart.
Le Puy en Velay – Fête du Roi l’Oiseau
The city of Puy en Velay is a city of festivals and celebrations, the most renowned of which is undoubtedly the Fête du Roi l’Oiseau (Festival of the King Bird).
This tradition started in 1524 as an annual competition held on Whit Monday to crown the city’s best archer. The victorious archer won the prestigious title of Roi l’Oiseau for one year, along with many privileges: the right to wear the sword, to participate in processions alongside the consuls, to receive the keys to the city, and to be exempt from taxes.
This custom was abolished during the French Revolution, but revived from 1920 to 1940 thanks to the local historian Albert Boudon-Lashermes. It was officially reinstated in 1986, and now takes place over four days, on the third weekend of September.
This festival attracts more than 6,000 participants from all over Europe, residents, visitors, tourists and professional actors dressed in period costumes of archers, craftsmen, merchants, princes, mercenaries and pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. They bring the French Renaissance back to life in the streets of Puy-en-Velay, with street performances and the reenactment of daily life in the 16th century. This festival is also a perfect opportunity to enjoy Hyppocras, a light, spicy wine whose origins date back to the Middle Ages!
Dentelle du Puy
For centuries, Le Puy en Velay was the undisputed capital of Auvergne lace. However, this once-flourishing industry has slowly declined. Today, only a handful of workshops remain, including a training centre.
The origins of the Dentelle du Puy are traditionally linked to Isabelle Mamour, an unparalleled embroiderer. According to oral tradition, commissioned by the local bishop to embellish the cloak of the Black Virgin for the Great Jubilee of March 25, 1407, Isabelle devised a technique involving pins and thread shuttles, and was thus able to create lace of exquisite fineness.
Other accounts, however, suggest that lace-making techniques may have been introduced to Le Puy en Velay by foreign merchants and peddlers who roamed the city streets, offering their services to pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela.
Le Puy en Velay – Green lentils
Le Puy en Velay is also renowned for its green lentils, which have a French AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) designation and are protected within the European Union by the AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) designation. One of the iconic dishes that showcases their excellence is the Petit salé aux lentilles – salted pork and lentils, a generous and tasty dish, consisting of lentils simmered with salted bacon.
Verveine du Puy
In 1859, a local herbalist, Joseph Rumillet-Carter, created the recipe for Liqueur de Verveine a drink that would become emblematic of the region.
Produced exclusively at the La Distillerie de la Verveine since its creation, the Verveine du Puy Liqueur is made from a blend of more than 32 plants, including local verbena, and is aged in oak barrels.
Verbena has been revered since ancient times for its many virtues. The Romans indeed attributed to it the power to rekindle love and nicknamed it “the Herb of Venus“. Over time, it became incorporated into the potions of witches and fortune tellers, acquiring a reputation for promoting love and predicting the future!
Finish your visit to Puy en Velay on a Saturday at its weekly market, which is full of local specialities and regional products.
Department of Haute Loire
Coordinates: Lat 45.042768 – Long 3.882936
Credits: Photos and source article are Jean Piludu – Text translated in English and edited by and for Travel France Online – Photo via Wikimedia Commons: Header by W. Bulach CC BY-SA 4.0
