Cloth from Genoa
Denim, a must-have item of the modern wardrobe, originated in the early 16th century in the industrious city of Genoa.
This initially robust blend of linen and cotton (not yet known as denim) quickly became a staple in the maritime industry, particularly for making sails and sailors’ clothing. However, it was Teramo Piaggio who revolutionised its production in 1538 by dyeing it with indigo, giving the fabric its vibrant blue.
Genoa was a prosperous and dynamic port city that exported denim to other ports in the Mediterranean and beyond. It was in this way that bales of blue fabric, bearing the name of the city of Genoa, reached the shores of London, where they were labelled “cloth from Jeane,” a name that, over time, adapted to English pronunciation to become “jean.”
The English population quickly adopted this fabric for its durability and affordability, and from the 17th century onward, Great Britain imported large quantities of it for the production of practical clothing such as farmers’ overalls.
What is the difference between jean and denim?
Although the terms “denim” and “jean” are now often used interchangeably, there was originally a technical distinction between denim and other types of fabric. Initially, the sturdy overalls made by English workers were crafted from a strong, thick, and often rough jean fabric, designed to withstand the rigours of manual labour and last a long time.
However, as this fabric gained popularity and became less expensive, manufacturers began to innovate. Weavers incorporated more cotton into the fabric, gradually replacing linen. This change resulted in a softer, more comfortable fabric, suitable for everyday wear, and marked the transition from the fabric’s rugged origins, intended for workwear, to its widespread adoption as a versatile and fashionable material used for everyday clothing.
Denim, derived from the term “Toile de Nîmes” (also known as Serge de Nîmes), was originally a fabric woven from a blend of wool and silk. These materials were abundant in the city of Nîmes: the wool came from sheep grazing in the Cévennes mountains (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes region), and silk production flourished thanks to sericulture. Thus, the Toile de Nîmes was renowned for its durability and affordability, while its robustness and ease of repair made it ideal for everyday wear.
Recognising the immense commercial potential of this fabric, Nîmes merchants began exporting it to England in the early 18th century, surpassing Genoa as the leading producer and exporter. This trade not only enhanced Nîmes’ prestige but also stimulated the silk industry, leading to increased production of hosiery and clothing. In the 18th century, Nîmes had indeed established itself as the third industrial city in France, behind Paris and Lyon.
A fantastic commercial venture
The evolution of denim continued over the decades, with manufacturers striving to meet the changing demands of the market. The early 19th century was a pivotal moment when a mill in the southern United States capitalised on the booming cotton industry. By replacing silk and wool with cotton, this factory created modern denim and dominated the industry until the early 20th century, when ambitious competitors emerged. Among these competitors was Cone Mills, which began supplying denim to Levi Strauss in 1915. Just seven years later, it became Levi’s exclusive supplier, marking the beginning of a remarkable business journey.
So, the next time you slip on your favourite jeans, take a moment to appreciate the legacy of the ancient weavers of Genoa and Nîmes. Without their innovations, denim as we know it wouldn’t exist!
