Houlgate on the Côte Fleurie
Houlgate is situated along the picturesque Côte Fleurie, the Pays d’Auge coastline, and on the north bank of the Dives estuary, opposite Cabourg.
It is framed by two gentle hills: the Butte de Caumont to the south and the Butte de Houlgate to the north.
Houlgate was originally part of land belonging to one of William the Conqueror‘s companions.
This fiefdom encompassed the small fishing port of Beuzeval, which developed around the Manoir de Beuzeval, which was rebuilt in the 19th century and now a listed historical monument.
But what makes Beuzeval one of the most emblematic historical sites is that, despite its modest size, it was the port from which William and his troops embarked for Hastings in 1066.
Beuzeval-les-Bains-Houlgate seaside resort
In the 19th century, the fashion for sea bathing took off, attracting not only the Parisian aristocracy and high society but also the emerging bourgeoisie.
Beuzeval was thus transformed into a charming family seaside resort to meet the needs of the first vacationers.
Many of these early visitors came from Caen and stayed with local families in the charming Hameau de la Mer (Hamlet by the Sea), as they affectionately called the small resort.
The modest boarding house, Pension de Famille Imbert, that the Imbert family built to meet the growing demand was expanded in 1877 and became the prestigious Hôtel Imbert.
Interestingly, the first holidaymakers were primarily Protestants who, in the following decades, continued to favour the south shore of the resort.
In the late 1850s, the influx of vacationers prompted three investors to embark on a more ambitious project: the creation of a larger seaside resort on the north bank of the small Drochon River.
This flat, expansive area was considered more suitable for a comprehensive urban plan. However, a sturdy stone seawall was erected along the waterfront to protect the sumptuous villas and the prestigious, newly built Grand Hotel.
This burgeoning seaside resort strteched at the foot of the Houlgate Hill, hence its name of Houlgate!
Beuzeval-les-Bains, on the south bank, and Houlgate, on the north bank, were initially two separate villages, served by the Houlgate train station, which was inaugurated in 1882. With the opening of a direct railway line two years later, Parisians could now reach Houlgate in just four hours. The two resorts thus merged under the name Beuzeval-Houlgate in 1898, as Houlgate had overtaken Beuzeval-les-Bains, and were definitely united as Houlgate from 1905.
Today, Houlgate is both a popular family seaside resort and a town with a rich architectural heritage. Among its most remarkable monuments are the casino, the Protestant temple, some 300 characterful houses and two large hotels: the Hôtel Imbert on the south bank and the Grand Hôtel on the opposite bank.
The Impressionists at Houlgate
The beach, tthe cliffs of the Falaises des Vaches Noires, Beuzeval, and Houlgate were all inexhaustible sources of inspiration for Impressionist landscape painters.
Paul Huet, Constant Troyon, and Léon Riesener were among the founders of the Cénacle, a group that met at the Auberge du Moulin Denise. They were soon joined by Berthe Morisot, Édouard Manet’s sister-in-law, Edgar Degas, and Gustave Caillebotte. Together, they captured the wild beauty and unique light of this coastal region in their paintings.
Houlgate and the Belle Epoque
The Belle Epoque was undoubtedly Houlgate’s golden age!
From 1870 until the First World War, the seaside resort experienced considerable growth, boasting high-quality real estate. Between 1880 and 1895, 230 lavish villas were indeed built along the seafront. The Grand Hotel was expanded, the casino rebuilt, and significant urban infrastructure was developed, attracting celebrities and royalty, making it a leading seaside destination.
The outbreak of the First World War brought this period of prosperity to an end, and Houlgate struggled to regain its former splendour. In 1928, the municipality designated Houlgate Hill a “picturesque site” to preserve the natural landscape and planted trees to prevent landslides. The Germans occupied Hougate Hill in 1942 and installed a battery as part of their Atlantic Wall defence system, which caused significant damage. The hill was thus once again restored after the war and planted with horse chestnut, plane, and ash trees.
Colonne de Guillaume
The Colonne de Guillaume, originally erected in 1861 atop the Caumont Hill, marked the site of William the Conqueror’s troops’ encampment before their departure for Hastings in 1066. The column was later moved to the beach.
This monolithic structure bears an engraved inscription.
Au souvenir – To the memory of
Du plus grand événement – The biggest event in the
Historique des Annales Normandes – History of Normandy
Le départ du Duc Guillaume Le Bâtard – The departure of the Duke William the Bastard
Pour la conquête de l’Angleterre – For the conquest of England
En 1066 – in 1066Pendant un mois – For a month
La flotte du Duc Guillaume – The fleet of Duke William
Stationna dans le port de Dives et son armée – Stationed in the port of Dives and his army
Composée de cinquante mille hommes – Consisting of fifty thousand men
Campa dans le voisinage – Encamped in the neighborhood
Avant de mettre à la voile. – Prior to sailing.
Department of Calvados
Coordinates: Lat 49.300913 – Long -0.075126
Photos via Wikimedia Commons: Header by Supercarwaar CC BY-SA 4.0 – Butte de Houlgate and Falaise des Vaches Noires by Gregory Deryckère CC BY 2.5 – Grand Hotel by Dcconsta CC BY-SA 3.0
