Listed as Ville d'Art et d'Histoire, Dinan has retained much of its fortifications and is a true gateway to history.
Built on a hill overlooking the Rance Valley, the city has always been an important crossroads.
It started as a Gallic Oppidum, became a Roman camp, a stronghold nestled behind thick palisades then a magnificent walled city protected by the massive ramparts we can see today.
The Lords of Britain used to be the vassals to the Lords of Normandy.
In 1065 Conan Count of Brittany rebelled against William the Conqueror who besieged and captured the stronghold.
A panel of the Bayeux Tapestry represents the episode where Conan presents the keys of Dinan to William.
Dinan became a Duchy in 1283 and upgraded its defence system.
The fortications were again improved during the War of Succession of Brittany of 1341-1364 and during the Hundred Years War.
The city is known for its castle which consists of the superb dungeon built in 1380 by Duke John IV of Brittany, the chapel and the Tour de Coetquen (1450) which are accessed by the 13th century Porte du Guichet (the temporary entrance gate).
The former chapel of the Dukes of Brittany exhibits various objects coming from local religious establishments such as a splendid Renaissance retable and a statue of a monk from the nearby Abbey of Beaulieu, a 16th century polychrome wooden statue of St. Barbe the patron saint of miners and bomb disposal experts ...
The entrance door was opened during the 18th century on the site of the altar.
The Dukes of Brittany attended the office from the private loggia where their richly carved stone chair and fireplace are still visible.
The Dungeon and the Tour de Coetquen were once converted in a jail and now house the Musee d'Histoire de la Ville de Dinan.
The museum chronicles the evolution of the city from prehistoric times to the early 20th century.
Among the medieval objects exhibited in the dungeon, there is a beautiful lead reliquary dating from 1557 containing the heart of Lord Francois Coetquen whose son restored the fortifications.
The top room has been converted into an exhibition hall dedicated to local painters and sculptors whose art works is related to Dinan and its region.
Those who do not suffer from vertigo can go onto the roof top to enjoy the wonderful view over the city and its surroundings.
The upstairs of Tour de Coetquen is devoted to an exhibition of old photos of Dinan while the old guard room in the lower part has been converted into a crypt to exhibit a series of recumbent statues.
The 2700m of ramparts, ten (out of the original fourteen guard towers), four massive gates and the castle, all beautifully preserved and restored, once protected the medieval citadel which spread over thirty hectares.
The ramparts were built in the 13th century when Dinan became ducal town and were continually improved until the Wars of Religion of the 16th century after which they lost their defensive role.
A lovely circular walk starting from the castle allows the visitor to discover them.
The Porte du Guichet, the current entrance to the Château of Dinan is located along the Rue du Château.
The splendid 12th century Porte St-Louis is found 50m lower down.
You have to walk under the gate to get to the Place du Duc Jean IV outside of the fortifications to admire the massive Tour de Coetquen.
The Promenade des Petits Fossés follows the rampart.
The Tour du Connétable and the Tour de Beaufort are located between the castle and the Place Duclos, a large roundabout developped on the site of the Porte de Brest.
The gate and a whole section of rampart had been left to fall into ruins and were pulled down in 1881.
Cobble stones now mark their site.
The rampart re-appears behind the buildings of the Rue Thiers where the moat has been converted into open-air carpark.
The Tour Julien (Place du Général Leclerc) is the starting point of the Promenade des Grands Fossés which takes you along the fortifications' northern side where you discover the impressive 15th century Tour de Lesquen and Tour de Beaumanoir.
This section of the rampart, again, offers stunning views of the city's buildings and the surrounding countryside.
You have to enter the wall city through the 13th century Porte Saint-Malo to join on to the old walkway (Chemin de Ronde) which leads to the Tour du Gouverneur and the Porte Jerzual.
The section of rampart beyond the Porte du Jerzual is partly destroyed so you have to walk down and follow the Rue du Rempart to find the next tower, the 13th century Porte Ste Catherine which is located in the northern corner of the Jardin Anglais, a pleasant park overlooking the viaduct and the Port of Lanvallay 74m below.
The 14th century Poterne du Cardinal, farther along the park, was recently restored.
Stairs lead you along the Promenade de la Duchesse Anne.
You must walk up Rue Victor Basch, turn right onto Rue Waldeck Rousseau and right again into Rue du General de Gaulle to find the remains of the rampart.
A few ruins remain of the Tour du Sillon and the Tour Longue which are today within the walls of private properties.
The rampart is visible again at the level of the 15th century Tour de Penthièvre and the splendid 12th century Porte St-Louis near the castle.
This pleasant tour is in my opinion the best way to discover the fortifications of Dinan.
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